Ocmulgee National Monument : America's Oldest Council Earth Lodge

Almost 1,000 years ago, perhaps on a clear, crisp, moonless night, 47 men, clad only in white tunics, stood waiting outside of the sacred council lodge. They could smell the pungent smoke from the council fire, mixed with the familiar aroma of river and forest. It would be warm inside the lodge, but they must wait here a while longer.

Finally, someone murmured “they are coming” and all looked towards the great temple mound. Even at a distance of one half mile it appeared to tower over them. They could easily see the progress of the 3 most important members of this pre-Colombian city because the bright yellow clay, used to cover the entire mound and stepped platform leading down to the plaza, reflected the light from the many blazing torches on the summit.

When the triumvirate at last arrived they entered according to rank, with the chief first, of course. The council meeting was important, as they all were, but this one was evidently more serious than most, because the lodge was intentionally burned after this last mysterious meeting. For almost ten centuries it lay hidden, but now it has arisen from the ashes.

For over 17,000 years this particular bluff overlooking the Ocmulgee River, now part of the Ocmulgee National Monument, has been occupied by Native Americans for living, hunting, and growing crops to support their families.

Projectile points from the Paleolithic era to the time of the first European explorers have been found here. But the most visible evidence of these ancient people’s presence here are the huge earthworks which dominate the scenery of this mysterious and historical setting.

The builders of these ancient earthworks, which includes a 50 ft. temple mound, a partially destroyed funerary mound, and many other burial and earthen council lodges, are still being discussed by many historians and archaeologists concerning where they came from and where they went after abandoning this site.

Around the year 900 the southeastern United States suddenly became the scene of organized societies based on the "Three Sisters." Maize, beans, and squash were planted together by these agrarian complexes because they complemented each other.

Planted on the flood plain of the river, the maize, or corn as we now refer to it, would grow quickly in the fertile ground.

The beans would climb up the cornstalk using it as a means of support while the squash, pumpkins, or gourds would cover the ground beneath, shading out the weeds. The introduction of these food crops into the southeast would change the native people's lives forever.

Along with the introduction of the new food sources there were also other strange new customs for the indigenous native tribes to experience.

In fact, there are some who think the locals were used for a sacrificial pool when the high priests atop the temple mound felt the need for such an event.

During the Great Depression President Franklin Roosevelt created several programs under the Works Progressive Administration (WPA) intended to help the struggling citizens by hiring them for certain state and federal projects.

The Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC), one of the sub-groups of the WPA, was involved in the archaeological work done at the Ocmulgee site from the years 1937 to 1942.

The earth council lodge featured in this article was excavated by a team of such CCC workers led by Dr. Arthur Kelly. Having been sent there by the Smithsonian Institute to investigate and determine the importance and date of the site, he thought this particular small mound worthy of complete excavation.

Even Kelly was surprised by what he found there. The most complete earth lodge ever discovered had a wealth of information for the intrepid archaeologist to examine and analyze for our enjoyment today.

The charred remains of the lodge timbers and the shape and position in which they still remained beneath the covering soil, all gave important insight into the construction techniques used by the ancient builders. But what was most interesting of all, was the floor.

The narrow hall leading to the lodge interior can only be used by those walking in single file. The woven mats covering the walls are made of the same materials used almost 1,000 years ago.

While the distance to the main lodge area is now only 14 feet, it has been shortened from its original 26’ length for the visitor’s convenience.

The original height of the passageway is unknown, but the reconstruction is undoubtedly close to the original in size. Twice a year the sun shines through the passageway and upon the raised bird-of-prey effigy.

Most, if not all, of the mounds and other earthworks are aligned with astronomical calculations and events. Perhaps this may be another clue to the origins of these ancient immigrants to the Macon Plateau.

The first thing one sees when stepping from the entrance passageway is the raised platform in the shape of and eagle or hawk. This baked clay dais has places for the 3 highest ranked councilmen to sit.

An identifying effigy common to the Mississippian cult, it also bears the forked-eye motif, one of the earliest symbols used by the Mississippian groups.

The entire floor of the 40’ diameter earth lodge is comprised of the original fire-baked clay constructed almost 1,000 years ago. A raised bench, starting from each side of the raised eagle dais, denotes seating for 47 other councilmen.

As each arm of the raised bench bends around the clay walls back towards the entrance passage, they become lower to the floor, indicating seats for lesser ranking councilmen.

The large tree trunks, used as posts for supporting the roof, and the logs comprising the radial spoke roof, are made of the same types of wood used in the original structure.

The central raised rimmed fire pit is empty of flames and smoke now, but one can imagine how it must have influenced the councilmen long ago.

The only other artifact found in the excavation was a single example of a type of pottery know as “Bibb Plain” which indicates it might have used as a container for the ritual “black drink,” a drink derived from a concoction made from the yaupon holly tree.

This ritual drink was common in many southeastern cults, even at a later time in history than this example suggests.

What happened at the last council meeting in this very lodge? The scene had to be somewhat mystical, especially due to the effects of the black drink the councilmen had ritually swallowed.

The sacred flames cast dancing shadows on the clay walls, while the thin blue curtain of smoke snakes lazily up towards the roof.

What dire warnings were issued from the center stage? Was there fear of attack from the local woodland Indians because they had captured prisoners for their sacrifices?

The wooden palisades and moats encircling the complex during its heyday seemed to indicate they had such enemies to fear.

Or perhaps there was a drought which threatened the very livelihood of the Ocmulgee inhabitants. We shall never know.

What we do know is this. The floor of the council lodge was swept clean and all other objects, save the black drink container, were removed from the room and the structure was burned completely.

Fortunately for us, we can now view this recreated earth lodge as it appeared almost ten centuries ago. Dr. Kelly and his CCC group deserves so much praise for giving us this wonderful and fascinating look at the past. I highly recommend visiting this remarkable historic site.

http://www.nps.gov/ocmu/historyculture/index.htm

http://ngeorgia.com/history/moundbuilders.html

http://www.nps.gov/history/history/online_books/brochures/1940/ocmu/sec1.htm