RV Camper Power Converter Troubleshooting, Repair, and Replacement FAQs
81The RV Power Converter
Many RVs and camper trailers use an RV power converter to operate the lights, refrigerator, vent fans, and perhaps the thermostat on the heating system. The RV power converter uses the 110 volt AC power from the particular source and transforms into 12 volt DC which these items require.
This article is intended to help you troubleshoot RV power converter problems and to repair or replace the unit if need be. Since there are different makes, types, and sizes of RV power converters, this article will deal with problems common to most RV power converters.
Although electrical knowledge is helpful, it is not necessary in order to be able to check the RV power converter or to repair or replace it. Always unplug the RV from the 110 volt power supply before attempting to repair any electrical components of the RV power converter unit.
RV Power converter Problems
In the majority of cases the RV power converter will just cease to function with the result being the total loss of power to any 12 volt DC fixtures or controls. In other cases low power might be present but not enough to run the 12 volt DC electrical system.
But until the on-board 12 volt are exhausted of their charge the problems will not become apparent. The RV power converter also maintains a constant charge on these batteries supplying variable voltage depending on the amount being drawn from the 12 volt DC system.
Remember that the on-board batteries must be in good shape and able to hold a full charge. One bad battery will draw power from the other good batteries and will eventually cause them to fail also.
In order to check the batteries it is necessary to fully charge them then disconnect them from the others to check their recharging abilities. Check with a multimeter after they sit awhile to determine if one or more is losing voltage.
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Troubleshooting the RV Power Converter
The first order in determining the converter problem is to start from the beginning. That is, where the 110 volt AC supply enters the RV power converter. With the RV power supply connected, check the voltage at the point it enters the converter. It should be from a range of 108 to 130 volts. Anything in this range is okay!
The next order of business is to check the voltage where it connects to the 12 volt DC breaker box. It should be 11-13 volts to operate satisfactorily. Anything less indicates a bad power converter. Now that we know it is a malfunctioning RV power converter we can check the inner components of the unit.
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The RV Power Converter Fan
RV power converters utilize a small fan to keep the electrical components cool while the unit is charging. It should be possible to hear the cooling fan running while the converter is in use. However, the fan may operate only when the temperature reaches a certain point.
This fan normally uses the 110 volt AC line voltage to operate. If the voltage to the fan is in the correct range, the fan is probably malfunctioning. Replacing this fan is normally an easy project but finding one might be a problem. Note the make, part numbers, voltage, and any other information on the RV power converter fan motor for use in obtaining a replacement online.
In some cases a different make and model may be substituted as long as the voltage and amperage are similar and the motor fits in the space. If the voltage is not getting to the cooling fan from the thermostat, a replacement thermostat is needed. These can be found online as well.
A thermal sensor is used to switch the cooling fan on and off, depending on the operating temperature of the converter components. Make sure the current is getting past this sensor and to the cooling fan before buying a new fan.
You should be able to jump the sensor and cause the fan to operate if the fan is not malfunctioning. If the fan works, the sensor is fine. If not, replace the sensor with one of equal value.
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RV Power Converter Resistors and Circuit Board
Some RV Power Converters rely on a resistor to control the voltage to the on board batteries and the 12 volt DC system. In some of the models it is riveted to the converter box. When checked with the multimeter it should read from 3 to 13 volts depending on the present charge of the battery and which on board 12 volt lights, fans, etc. are on. If your batteries are not being fully charged, this is often the culprit.
It may be necessary to disassemble the converter box to access this resistor. Be careful if the circuit board requires removal or it may be damaged. Drill out the rivet and replace with the correct replacement resistor. If the exact replacement part is difficult to locate, you may find a satisfactory replacement at an auto supply store.
As long as the values are the same almost any 12 volt DC resistor should work. These type resistors are used in many types of automotive applications. Once this resistor is replaced the on board batteries should keep charged with the proper amount of voltage.
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Replacement RV and Camper Power Converters
Sometimes it’s just better to bite the bullet and buy a new converter, especially if you aren’t the DIY type of person or just don’t have the time to chase down parts. But actually, it isn’t all that costly to install a new RV power converter. Installation is very easy too.
Progressive Dynamics Inteli-Power converters are fan cooled and deliver clean dependable 12 volt DC power to the lights and other appliances in your motorhome or camping trailer. Choose from 45-60-80 amp models to fit your particular RV power requirements.
If you’re thinking of replacing the 12 volt DC breaker panel or updating an older motorhome or travel trailer, the Parallax 7345 Power Center combines the power converter with a reliable breaker system for dependable clean 12 volt DC power to supply your RV. Parallax also provides converters only with 45 and 55 amp supply and breaker panel too. Check this page for great deals.
A good 12 volt converter system can make or break a camping trip. Learning to repair and understand how the system works will eventually pay off on one of these occasions. Good luck!
CommentsLoading...
Glad this info could be of service to you, Debbie! I had to learn this the hard way because many of our farm tractors use multiple batteries to start the powerful diesel engines.
Delaying replacing a bad battery only leads to having to replace the others in the long run!
Not sure about the DC voltage used in the UK, but the theory is still the same!
Thanks for reading and for the nice comments!
Randy
Sorry, have to add to last comment .. My converter says its electrical rating: Panel input 120vac 60hz 30amp this is where iam stumped thinking it was a 30amp... converter input 105-130vac,950watts Out put 13.6vdc , 55amp ????? I see its 30 going in it says 55 going out ?? Does that mean its a 55 amp converter???? Wow i feel stupid .LOL
LOL back at you, Dustin! That is why I tried to explain about the 30 amp and 50 amp breaker panels and hook ups.
That is great! This means you have a 30 amp 110 volt AC breaker panel and a 55 amp power converter. The 30 amps refers to the 110 volt hookup going to the 110 volt breaker panel. The 55 amps is the DC voltage coming from the power converter.
Your converter should be adequate!
Randy
I have a WFCO power converter in my camper. It works for a bit then kicks off for a minute or two then comes back on. Woeks fine for five minutes or so then kicks out again
Yo Harvey!
If the battery or batteries are good, then this sounds like a malfunctioning resistor in your power converter. It controls the amount of charge the battery is allowed to receive when the battery needs replenishing.
Randy
Hello there....Perhaps a sill question. I bought a used trailer about a year ago and ever since have been having trouble getting adequate power to operate the 12 volt components....lights, bathroom fan, etc. Its as though the trailer just can't supply enough power... The AC is fine. I also checked the battery and it always shows a full charge. The minute use start using lights in the trailer or turn on the furnace you can see a big drop in the power meter (on the wall) inside the trailer. Well today, I noticed I do not have any reverse polarity fuses in the converter at all. They were never there....Would this be the problem??? Thanks very much for the advice...
The reverse polarity fuses should not make a difference unless the wiring is wrong. This sounds more like a resistor or battery problem.
Hi Randy....
Would replacing the converter be the best thing to do here...
Thanks,
Joe
Hello again Joe! I would first make sure the problem is in the converter. Use a multimeter to check the voltage in the 12 volt DC breaker box and going to the battery itself. A bad resistor in the power converter may cause this problem.
You may repair this yourself or have someone do it for you. But if the converter is fairly old it may be better to just replace it. Thanks for reading my hubs.
Randy
lol....Thanks...With that said, I have never ever heard the fan in this converter either. Sounds like a replacements is due (WFCO 8935AN).
Thanks...Great info.
Thanks Joe! The fan not working is not a good sign. For most owners, replacing the converter is the best option. Good luck with the new power converter and stop by again!
Randy
Hey there Randy,
I am having trouble with my power converter. I have two 6 volt batteries that were no good.....had to replace, I can get full battery charge with my generator (lights, fans, fuel station pump, bunk bed motor and water pump work fine) but my microwave and my TV do not power up. I have checked all fuses and all looks good. FYI my truck fuse to my trailer hook-up was blown. Any help greatly appreciated.
Hello Leo. Unless your TV is a 12 volt model, neither it nor your microwave uses the RV power converter. This sounds like a 110 volt AC breaker panel problem.
Use a multimeter or voltage tester to check the outlets and breakers/fuses which provide power to the TV and microwave. If your other 110 volt AC accessories work okay, the problem has to be in the control panel.
You should be able to find which breaker/fuse provides electrical power to these outlets and go from there. Hope this helps you isolate and repair the problem.
Randy
Thanks Randy, I appreciate the quick response. That makes total sense, generator needs to be on in order to run my TV and microwave. I will check those breakers, thanks for the help.
Glad to be of service, Leo. If you cannot run down the problem, feel free to ask if you think I can help!
Randy
Hello again Randy, you were right about the breakers, looks like my silly self failed to acknowledge the generator has a breaker of its own. When I would turn on the generator there was no load(I guess it tripped), that is why the TV and micro had no power, I know that I mentioned that I can charge the batteries this way....with the breaker OFF not sure if the batteries ever charged at all. Will have to put the power converter back before I can test my theory. Keep you updated:-)
Now we are getting somewhere, Leo! Glad you chased down the problem. Do keep me updated on your theory, it's always good to hear how problems eventually solved.
Thanks!
Randy
I have a 2008 coachmen 5th wheel. Last night I turned on the outside lights for my daughter and son-in-law who will be using it for acouple of days. The inside light were bright as always. Two or three hours later I looked outside and the lights were dim. I checked the inside lights and they were also dim like it was not hooked up to any power. The camper is always hooked to a power source even when we are not using it. I checked out the fuse box could not find anything wrong. HELP
Hello Donnie,
Sounds like your power converter is not performing up to snuff or either your batteries are not holding a full charge very long.
You might try checking the cells in the batteries/battery to see if the electrolytic fluid is low and if so, they will not hold a full charge.
If the fluid level is at acceptable levels then use a multimeter or battery checker to see if the power converter is sending a full 12 or 13 volt charge to the low batteries. If not, the resistor in the RV power converter is probably at fault.
The choices are to repair the converter yourself, pay someone to do it, or buy a new converter. You make the call!
Thanks for reading my RV articles!
Randy
Hi:
We have a 2003 Palomino 27' camper. We bought it used and the battery backup never worked. We are selling and want it to work properly. We have a good battery, but with a/c power disconnected, the only thing that works on battery is the slide out. No lights, fridge, furnace, etc. All connections seem fine (no corrosion). Is there a way to verify if the power converter is bad? If so, why would the slide work, but not lights? All work well off 120v power. Would really appreciate any help.
Thanks!
Eric
Hello Eric! If the slide-out works fine the rest of the 12 volt DC system should also. It doesn't make sense for everything in the slide-out to work well on 12 volt while the rest of the circuits do not.
A multi-meter will tell you if the power converter is putting out the proper voltage-up to 13 or 14 volts- by checking the voltage at the 12 volt power panel.
Check the breaker for the slide-out and compare it to the other 12 volt breakers to see if they are outputting the same amount of power.
This seems odd for only part of the 12 power to work. Start by checking this element of the power converter first to see if it is performing properly. It may not be providing enough power to run all circuits.
Feel free to ask for more info if you don't find the problem after this check.
Thanks for reading and for your question.
Randy Godwin
having trouble with draw down on the batteries in my camper.
put a volt meter between neg. battery post and neg. batt. cable and shows its drawing 12.3 volts. is this normal?
disconnected two small red wires from the battery terminal that lead to the inside of the inverter and the draw down quit please help with info!! Thanks!
Hello Colie,
Try switching off the 12 volt breakers one at a time while the multimeter is connected as you described and see if this tells you which breaker is drawing the voltage.
Reconnect the two red wires first so the problem will be the same as before. The fridge, furnace thermostat, lights, fans, all draw 12 volts, so if any are on, the voltage will be indicated on your meter.
You may have to repeat this procedure on the positive post and cable to find the problem. Be sure the converter is producing enough voltage to keep the batteries charged AND run the accessories by checking the output directly from the converter output to the batteries to rule out a bad resistor in the converter.
I am assuming your batteries will hold a good charge and are topped up with battery acid. Batteries will sometimes show a full charge bur will quickly drop in amperage if they are low on fluid.
Also check all of your grounding connections in the battery compartment. A bad ground can cause some strange things to happen. I hope this helps you find the problem but feel free to ask for more info if none of the suggested procedures work. We'll then go from there.
Thanks for reading and for your questions.
Randy
It looks like you have helped a lot of people. So I thought i would try my luck. For some reason my thermostat on the wall isnt showing any display. I checked the dc fuse and the gas is turned on. I also tried to plug my trailer into 110 ac as well. No luck!! Is the therostat usually wired to the furance or to the AC unit. I measured 12volts on the terminals behind the therostat +12 and -12. Its werid. Oh yeah my problem no heat ...air or fan is working. Thanks Daniel
Hello Daniel,
If the AC is a roof mounted model with the thermostat and on/off switch located on the ceiling assembly, it isn't connected to the wall thermostat in most cases.
The wall thermostat is more than likely used for the furnace and may be defective. It does indeed use the 12 system to operate so replacing the thermostat might solve your problem. Good luck on your repairs.
Randy
Sorry no switch on the AC just on the wall. I can change it from Cool/Fan/Heat. I talked with a RV tech and he will be giving me a new one and I will reconnect it up. Its a three wire control +12 Common -12. He said it gets the power from the AC controls. My fingers are crossed.
Mine too Daniel! If the display isn't working it probably is the thermostat. It isn't uncommon for them to go bad. If that doesn't fix it we'll go from there, if you think I can help you.
Good luck!
Randy
Your the best. I got a new one pulled out the old one and it was black the size of a dime on the board. Strange only 2 days old.
Great news, Daniel! Even new thermostats can go bad because of the delicacy of the circuit boards in them. I hope this takes care of your problem for good.
Thanks for stopping by and please visit again. This should help other RV owners with similar problems. Enjoy the upcoming camping season. I'm getting ready to go camping myself.
Randy
One last question for you. I now need to change my 325W AC Dometic Fridge heater element. Do you just pull it out of the tube or can I some how open the flute up. It's made of tin and has a bit of a collar on it. Do I push it together to open the bottom half or just twist and pull the old one out? Thanks again.
Hello again, Daniel! Check out this link and see if it answers your question about the element replacement. If not, let me know and I'll give you further info.
Thats the exact picture. I just cant figure out how to get the panel or tube off! I've came so far. I'll keep on trying. Maybe I just need 2 more cuts from the screws on my hand! :) Thanks
@Daniel--Sorry, I've been too busy today to actually look at a fridge to find out how to remove the cover. I'll try to do it tomorrow, Daniel. Shedding a little blood is par for the course for me when I do almost any repairs. No leeches needed! LOL!
Randy
Hi ..... 2010 Palomino. DC does not work the lights or the fan but does work the pump and furnace. Fuses are all good and breakers are all fine. Where do I start?
Thanks a lot.
Good day, John. Using a multimeter or 12 volt test light, check each breaker in the 12 volt DC breaker panel which provides power to the fans and lights. Check the wires leading to these fixtures as they lead from the particular breaker.
If these wires indicate the proper voltage-12-13.5-then next check the voltage at the fan and light switch to determine if power is actually being supplied to these fixtures. If so, the fixtures are at fault or are not grounded properly.
You should also check the ground wires in the breaker panel to be sure they have a good connection. Sometimes it takes a bit of detective work to trace down the problem. Are the fans and lights on different circuits? You may also swap the wires from a known working breaker with one of those not working to see if it makes a difference.
Please ask for more info if needed!
Randy
Thanks for all your thoughts Randy. I have some playing to do. I'll let you know ......
Thanks John! Good luck and check back if you need further info!
Randy
I have a motorhome with 3 12-volt marine batteries, converter, and inverter. The batteries are one year old and check OK and when plugged into shore current the converter seems to supply power to all appliances and lights fine. It is always plugged into shore current so it is ready to go at a moments notice but have noticed that the batteries loose power very quickly when camping. Had a trailer and the power would easily last at least three days before depleating. The motorhome can loose power in 3 hours before the inverter quits working and the lights fade. As an experiment tried connecting an old fashion automotive battery charger to the batteries after a week of shore charging with the converter and the charger showed a charging rate of almost 50%. Does a converter loose the ability to charge batteries up to full charge?
Hello Ein,
Yes, the power converter may not fully charge the batteries if the resistor is not functioning properly. It is also possible the marine type batteries have developed a "memory" similar to the battery in a cell phone or other similar rechargeable batteries.
I would suggest letting the batteries fully discharge and then using the battery charger to bring them slowly to a full charge before trying them again. Be sure the batteries are fully topped up with fluid as low fluid levels will cause just such a short charge.
You may also discharge the batteries and let the converter charge them back up, but check the output from the converter when starting the recharge to see if the converter is putting out at least-12 to 13 volts to the discharged batteries at first.
This sounds like a battery problem rather than a converter problem but it's hard to say for sure until you try the discharge method.
Feel free to ask for more info if needed!
Thanks for reading,
Randy
Hey Randy,
Just wanted to tell you what the problem was. Sorta simple but hard to find. I determined which DC circuit it was. Then started checking the wires attached to the main one for the circuit. Lo and behold pulling on one it came all the way back from under the sink area. Then to find where it went to.... it was a push on connection not a bare wire if you know what I mean. Eventually I figured out it went to one of the 2 switches that sense when the sink is in place. It was a bitch feeding it back up through but I did and it worked! Thanks for the help Randy!
Great news, John! Isolating the circuit, along with the different items pulling power from it, is the only way to tell if there are loose connections or a break in the wire.
I was really not much help to you but so glad you found the problem. Finding most electrical problems is usually a matter of trial and error until the problem is found.
Thanks for your questions and for the solution you found. Perhaps someone else will benefit from your experience!
Randy
I am remodeling a 1994 Terry Travel Trailer. A friend told me he thought the converter was bad. I do not Know if it even has one. Do you know where it might be?
Hi Bill. First you must find the 12 volt DC breaker panel. It is probably adjacent to the 110 volt breaker panel, wherever that is located.
Some power converters are connected or built onto the 12 volt DC breaker panel itself. If not, you may follow the
wires leading from the 12 volt breaker panel to the power converter. The power converter is normally located near the 12 volt breaker panel.
I hope this info is useful to you and good luck on your remodeling project!
Thanks for checking out my article and for the question!
Randy Godwin
Thanks a TON for this info! I have an issue where the following is occuring. I have a single battery source. When plugged into shore power the 12v lights come on. The inverter seems to function intermitanly. When I hear the inverter come on the lights get brighter for a brief period (maybe 10-30 seconds) then the inverter goes off (while lights still on), lights dim down again. I know its going off because I can hear it. I used to notice the inverter sound come on anytime a 12v light was in use but I am not noticing that now. Thanks in advance for any help.
Sorry to add more.. When uplugged from shore power I have 12v lights. The rv was unplugged overnight and was drawing power (antennae booster) as the battery gauge went down to 1/3. When I plugged it back in the battery gauge went up to 2/3 and the inverter made a slight humming noise. It seems to be charging the battery. If I recall before I had problems the battery guage always went to full when plugged into shore power.
Hello Mick! I would first check the battery fluid level to assure there is enough acid solution in each cell. If low, top up with pure water. Often a low battery will not keep a full charge long.
Also, if you are using a marine type battery, try allowing it to go completely down (discharged) and try recharging it then. Marine type deep cycle batteries often develop a memory which causes your problem.
Randy
Randy, I had switched batteries before making this post. When I took out the old battery, their appeared to be fluid/water on top of one side. I opened the lid and yes, two of the cells were low. It looked as if it may have been overcharged? Anyway, I had put a new battery in it and was still getting the same thing?
This may indicate a bad resistor in the power converter, Mick. This component controls the amount of voltage the battery receives when it falls down to a certain low charge.
If the power converter overcharges the battery it will boil out the fluid if let go long enough. You might try using a regular battery charger while the RV is unplugged from the shore connection to see if the batteries perform normally. If so, the power converter is at fault.
Good luck and please let me know what you find out!
Thanks again,
Randy
That sounds right due to the fluid on top of the battery. If that is the case, can I repair the resistor or just go for a new one? Thanks again for the help.
Yes Mick, if you are a hands on type of guy it is a fairly easy and inexpensive procedure. Try to find the correct wiring diagram for your RV power converter to find the resistor. You should be able to find one online.
Good Luck!
Randy
Hey Randy. My unit is a WFCO WF-9855. It seems it is held together with rivots. Im assuming I have to drill these out then re- rivot when complete.
@ Mick-I'm not familiar with that particular unit but some do require the rivets to be drilled out and replaced by new rivets or simply self tapping sheet metal screws.
Thanks for the question and your time!
Randy
hi there, I have a 2002 starcraft popup and the 12 volt system quit working. the over load light on the converter on. I checked power at the 12v fuses and nothing. The 110v works fine. I am assuming the inverter is bad but would like a second opion. Thanks
@Jason-Yes, if you are not getting any power to the 12 volt DC power panel the converter is probably at fault. Have you checked the voltage at the batteries?
Be sure there isn't a bad connection from the batteries to the 12 volt panel before any repair or replacement is done. If the converter is bad, it might only be a bad resistor. Good luck and thanks for the question.
Randy
Randy, wanted to get back to you about my motorhome. Pulled all the batteries (including the chassis battery),numbered them where they were, and took them to be tested. What was discovered was that one of the house batteries was bad and it just happens that it was the first in line connected to the coach wiring. And to make matters worse, the ground from that battery to the other two somehow had corroded away so that the one bad battery was the only one being used. No wonder I was loosing power in one hour. Replaced the bad battery, the corroded wires, and charged the other two up to full charge. Took a trip, and to my enjoyment everything worked great. The converter and the alternator now keeps everything up to full charge and ready to go. Now if the price of gas would just go down it would really be fun. Thank you for your help
Glad you found the problem, Ein. I suspected the batteries because most RVs use two or more to power their 12 volt lights and etc. It only takes one of the batteries going bad to cause all sorts of problems.
Congrats on a successful trip and I too hope gas goes down soon.
Thanks for coming back and reporting the culprit and the cure. I'm sure others will benefit by your experience.
Randy
Randy, before I, (We) figured out my problem I was considering replacing the batteries with two 6-volt golf cart batteries. Do you have any feed-back about 6-volt compared to 12-volt marine batteries or any 12-volt batteries in general. Thanks
Hello again, Ein. The only difference you will see using 6 volt DC batteries is in the higher amperage you will have. We often have 2 6 volt batteries to start out diesel tractors instead of 1 12 volt because of this. The extra amperage is needed for turning over the high compression diesel engines better.
I'm not sure it would benefit you but it certainly could not hurt if you have the space for them. Of course, rechargeable batteries (deep cycle) should last longer if the RV is used on batteries alone for long periods at a time.
Good luck and thanks for for your questions, again!
Randy
When I turn on my AC unit and it starts cooling, I can then turn on a 12V light and my AC shuts off immediately. When I look at my battery indicator inside my coach is hows only 1 light and the interior lights are dim. I just replace the battery with a new deep cycle battery so I don't think the battery is the issue. Can a faulty converter cause the AC to shut down as soon as a 12v light is turned on?
Hello Russell, it is possible the power converter isn't providing enough charge to keep the battery fully charged.
If the thermostat is controlled by the 12 volt DC system and not mounted on the ceiling assembly, the light could pull too much voltage and affect the operation of the thermostat.
You should be getting 12-13 volts at the battery if the power converter is working correctly.
Randy
My thermostat is a remote control unit. I just found it odd that as soon as I would turn on a 12V light the ac immediately shuts down. I thought the AC being 120V and the 12 V system were seperate. I don't understand why the two would conflict with each other. How does the converter for teh 12v side have any affect on the AC unit?
I understand your being puzzled by my suggestion, Russell. To be honest, since I don't know how your particular A/C system is set up, I can only guess at the cause of your problem.
Some RV's have a completely independent 120 volt AC system which does not depend on the 12 volt DC system to operate the thermostat.
Other RV's may have thermostat which controls both heat and A/C and operate on the 12 volt system. If this isn't the case then I too am stumped. LOL!
Please let me know what you find out.
Randy
I certainly appreciate your fast reply and assistance. I will try to be more specific in future post with the exact equipment. Thanks again.
No problem, Russell. Sorry I couldn't be of more assistance.
Randy
Randy, Russell sounds like he has an interesting problem. He might try unplugging the airconditioner from the existing wire and plugging it into a heavy duty extension cord to see if it will continue to operate while the light is on. If it does, the wiring harness must be screwed up. If the unit was purchased second hand, and learning from my own experience look for the mistakes that someone else has made. Clue, . . . hunt for anything that looks different than what the factory would have done. Chips in the paint on screws for electrical plates, circuit boards, etc. He might try undoing the remote thermostat (whatever that is)and using a normal one.
Good advice, Ein. It's always good to check out anything which looks like it has been altered since the RV was new.
Although many roof mounted RV A/C's are wired directly into the circuit, it isn't difficult to attach a different power cord to isolate the problem from the on board power supply.
Randy
I recently lost power to my 36 ft. holiday rambler.
when i opened the basement where 110v wires connect, i received a shocking experience when my arm touched the metal basement pan. after unpluging, i found burned wire coming from the box where external power wire connects. removed and shocking stopped. Have 110 power. checked ground on trailer, all seemed well. converter has stopped humming. any suggestions? thanks.. ken
Hello Ken. I'm confused as to exactly where you received the electrical shock. When you said "basement," I assumed you mean the receptacle where the RV plugs in. Please clarify if I am mistaken in my assumption.
Randy
Hey Randy, this has nothing to do with converters, so I appologize for the disruption but found out and corrected a problem with the Dometic RV refrigerator in the motorhome. With the heat this summer it just didn't seem to be cooling as it should so placed a fan on the side of the motorhome moving air through the back of the unit and out the top. Worked like a deep-freeze with the fan. After a couple of weeks of running this electric fan I decided to take the initiative and pull out the large refrigerator and see what I might find. What I found was the coils were packed with cottonwood fluff and stopping the air movement. Removed the fluff and the refrigerator works great now without the fan. Love those damn cottonwood trees!
Hello again Ein. Ha! If you had read my RV fridge article you would have found the problem immediately. But thanks for relating the problem as cottonwood has never been mentioned as causing bad cooling.
Usually the chimney is stopped up by wasp nests or other debris and causing the heat to not escape. Thanks for the visit and stop by any time.
Randy
couple weeks ago the power relay would shut off when trying to start the generater, then it would come on again after about 20 sec. now it turns off & wo'nt reset unless I start the van up. If I even turn the battery switch off, then on the relay will stay off untill I start the engine. I can then turn off the engine & I have battery power???
That is puzzling, Bruce. Have you tested the output from the converter lately? Are you having any other problems with the 12 volt DC system? Having to start the van seems to point to a low converter output.
Randy
DC system seems fine; baterries fully charge. problem initially started when I had trouble getting generater started, aftger a couple of days working on gen. & numerous start attempts it starting setting off the relay.
you mention the resister often could I have ruined it in my numerous attempts a trying to start gen?
I wouldn't think it is the resistor if the batteries remain charged. More than likely the relay, or overload, is weak from being tripped too often.
Randy
are these replaceable parts or am I better of w/ anew converter, really appreciate your help!!!
These are replaceable parts, Bruce. Besides, something else may be causing the problem. Does the generator have a switch which has to be activated to change from a line connection to the generator?
If so, the switch could also be at fault. Don't give up yet, let me look into the problem. If I don't reply soon be sure to remind me. I have several other RV problems to solve at this time. Thanks for your patience.
Randy
no switch; Inteli Power 9200 converter
thanks again
bruce
Randy, Do you have any info about battery isolators and marine alternators? The alternator in my boat is rated at 61 amps but the amp meter shows only a max output of about 20 amps even when the batteries are low. Replaced the old 30 amp alternator that had an external regulator a year ago with the new one that is internally regulated and it is showing still a low output. The voltage gage shows only about 13 volts with about 2000 RPM and sometimes even lower until the engine runs for a little while. Have never seen the voltage meter read above 13.5 or so. If the running lights are on the voltage meter will even drop below the 13 mark and sometimes close to the 12. The isolator never allows the main battery to drop but have sometimes noticed that the engine starts slowly. Thank goodness it always starts. Everything is new and I am wondering if I did something wrong or something just isn't working up to par.
Yo Ein! The voltage sounds right as 13.5 volts is usually the high end you should expect from the alternator. Concerning the amperage, I'm not sure about this. It may depend on the number of batteries you have on your boat as to how many amps the meter indicates the alternator is putting out.
Are you sure your starter isn't requiring more amps than normal because of age or wear? Sorry I cannot be of more help on this one, but it's a little out of my line where changing the alternator to a higher amperage is concerned.
Randy
Hey Randy, Had a great labor day weekend on the boat after figuring out the trouble with the alternator. There was nothing wrong with it. What I did find was a fuze or resistor or something that looks like an orange marshmellow that was fastened to the output current line from the alternator. It was only allowing 20 amps max output. Removed the thing and "WOW" 60 amps poured out of the alternator when the batteries needed it. Televisions, microwaves, radios, inverters, etc. take a lot of juice and 20 amps just wasn't cutting it. Now the batteries stay charged up. It almost seemed like that thing wasn't allowing the alternator to sence that it needed to kick out more amps. Any idea what that thing was? Anyway, wanted to let you know that it made for a great 5 days and I am tanned.
Glad you had a great time, Ein! Sounds like a resistor of some sort, probably for use with a smaller electrical system without as much power needed to operate the other electrical devices.
I earned my own tan over the Labor Day weekend by going fishing on Amelia island. Thanks for relating the solution to your alternator problem. I'll remember your experience in the future when faced with similar problems.
Thanks, as always, for stopping by, it's always good to hear from you.
Randy
Hi Randy, I just bought a 2000 Sandpiper that has the usual drop in 12 volt usage as the furnace turns on. Also noticed there is some "burn" marks in the area of one of the independant 30 amp fuses top portion above row of fuses.
If you wiggle the 30 amp fuse the converter turns on and off. Thus... bad board???
Also there is written on the fuse panel sheet that one fuse is for the generator. I cant find one and I crazy or was the handwritten item labeled converter wrong?Thanks Randy!!!
Hello Bruce, it does indeed sound like you have a loose fuse holder in the panel. You may or may not be able to tighten up this bad connection depending on the panel make itself.
You could alternately move the problematic circuit to an unused one if available. Some panel labels are written before it is determined if an RV will contain a generator or not. And yes, it may be labeled incorrectly.
A multimeter should indicate whether it is or not. Burn marks are not a good sign, be sure to check this out thoroughly. Ask for more info if needed.
Thanks for the question.
Randy
Thanks for the info Randy.
The panel is a magnetek 7300 series model 7345. Weather tightening of fuse holders is available... I have no idea... How does one shift the converter wire{s} to a new fuse holder of which I have one?
Lastly, the phrase (generator) is handwritten on one of the labels. Could it be hidden somewhere in the camper?
Thanks again
Bruce, I doubt you have a hidden generator without a control switch or knob being apparent in your RV. Also, a generator would be easily accessed from an outer door or panel if it was on board.
As long as the amps are the same you can simply move the wires running to the converter to an empty fuse holder. One hot wire will go to the new fuse holder while the ground will stay connected to the ground bar in the panel box.
Does this info help?
Great info! Thanks Randy
Glad to help, Bruce! Thanks for reading!
Randy
I've got a 98 four winns 31' class c I replaced the Invertor a couple years ago. All has been in great working condition.But now when I put the convertor breaker in it trips down. What could be causing this?
Hello Kenny! There may be several causes for your problem. One could be a bad breaker, which is not unheard of. Check the wiring where the converter connects to the line to assure there is not a short or that the hot wire isn't making contact with the ground or any part of the metal casing.
If the breaker is good, the converter is probably pulling too may amps for some reason. You may have to disconnect some 12 volt items until you find the problem.
Any more info you can give me may help narrow the problem down.
Randy
Hey Randy, Tried unpluging eveything I could get to kept tripping breaker. Removed all 15a fuses in inverter it still tripped. The last time I tried it I saw a flash. I removed cover and on the circuit board their was a flash burn beside a coil. Looking closer it was a round black thing with a number SG302. Can this be replaced or do I need to buy another invertor.
Thanks, Kenny
it's hard to say for sure Kenny. Replacing this part--it could be a resistor--may solve your problem unless the short has damaged other parts of the circuit board. It may be easier to replace the entire board depending on the expense. I'd check online for replacement parts before buying a new converter.
Sorry I cannot be of more help to you in this case. Thanks again!
Randy
Afterlooking more at the board yea it was fried! Call the manufactor and talked to tech. He said either it took a surge of power or lighting strike. So a new one for 187.00 from PPL i'll be buying the new one.
Randy Thanks a million you have a great place here, I'll be reading the blogs and anything I can help with i'll write!
Again Thanks, Kenny
Thanks for telling me what you found, Kenny! Sorry you couldn't fix it cheaper but it could have been worse. Please do stop in anytime and I appreciate your time.
Randy
I have a 1994 Wilderness by fleetwood. I think that the power converter is bad. Where is the convert/charger located.
Hi Cubsfan! The converter is usually located close to the 12 volt DC breaker panel. Some are located under the bed if the panel is nearby. Hope this helps!
Randy
The 12 volt panel is under the bed as well as the 120 v breakers, but , the coverter does not seem to be there. Could the coverter be part of the fuse panel or could it eb somewhere else?
Yes, the converter can be made into, or part of, the 12 volt DC power breaker panel. It depends on the type 12 volt system you have in your particular RV. Trace the power from the main 12 volt breaker to the converter if you can't find it any other way.
There is also a converter breaker or fuse in the 110 volt AC panel which furnishes power to the converter. It may be necessary to follow the wires to the converter.
Randy
The panel looks just like the front of the parralax convert but the parrallax converted shows the converter/charger under the breakers and fuses. There does not seem to be anything below the panel on my rv. I will try and follow the wire and see where they lead.
Is there any place online with a schematic I could check out??
You should be able to Google your particular model of converter and find a diagram online, cubsfan! let me know what you find out if you don't mind. Thanks for your question.
Randy
No Randy, I meant a wiring schematic for the trailer.
Sorry I misunderstood your question, Cubsfan. Then you must contact Fleetwood as they should be able to provide a wiring schematic for your model. Good luck!
Randy
Hello,I have a 93 layt 5th wheel and my tv started to smoke last night.Everything got really bright and thier was a loud buzzing.Thiers to much power when its buzzing and when its not buzzing,The silonoid clicks when I try to plug anything in & the lights are very dim.Im going to check my breaker box for loose conn and burnes on the board ill check voltage in & out when i get a meater.Thanks for all the free info,its cool u take the time out of your day to help people.
Hey Ryan! If you have a 50 amp breaker box be sure to check the wiring to see if you may be drawing 220 volts AC into your circuits. A bad ground is usually the problem if this is the case. Feel free to tell me what you find when you check with the meter or if you need more advice.
I always enjoy helping fellow RV'ers with their problems. Thanks for stopping by and for stating your problem. :)
Randy Godwin
We just bought a 2006 Gulfstream Cavalier and know next to nothing about campers. We have it plugged in to house we are noticing a fan sound coming from under the breaker box. I have read a few mentions of a cooling fan, but should it be running all of the time?
@Barbara--Yes, it is the power converter cooling fan you are hearing. It is normal for it to be running, especially of you are using lots of lights or other 12 volt DC appliances which requires the converter to furnish more power to the system.
I hope you enjoy your RV and feel free to check out my other articles on RV repair. Thanks for reading and for your question.
Randy
Thanks Randy! You have been most helpful! Now one more question...Does this thing have a battery and if so where do we find it???
Glad to help, Barbara! And yes there is at least one battery. It may be the battery or batteries need some fluid added which might make the converter run more than usual.
Often the batteries are located underneath the steps or in another outside compartment because of the fumes often given off from a charging battery. You may be able to follow the cables from the converter if you can see them. I hope this info helps!
Thanks again for reading!
Randy
Hello. I bought a '77 Starcraft pop-up. When connected to 110/120 house power none of the small lights work. The power outlets do (lights, small fan, etc.) There is no battery. I have checked the fuses,light blubs, made sure the switch was set to Conv. or Off - to no avail.
On a secondary question, is there a very simple way to connect a battery to this configuration?
Thank you!
HI Nancy! The power converter seems to be malfunctioning in your camper and probably needs replacing if there is no battery nor place to hook one up. Yes, you can replace the converter with a battery but it will need to be charged often when you are using the unit.
The resistor in your converter probably needs repairing and this may be the best way to go.
Randy
Thank you. I ordered a newconverter tonight. N.
Good luck with the new converter and in the coming camping season, Nancy! Feel free to check out my other repair articles if the need arises and don't mind asking me about any other problems you may have with your RV.
Thanks again for reading!
Randy
plug my RV to a 110 volt line at my garage, soon as i do it trips the breaker at the house.It worked before not sure what the problem is.Does the same thing when i hook up to my sons house
Hi George! Try turning all of the breakers off in the 110 volt AC breaker panel in your RV before plugging the pigtail into the house. Then turn them on one at a time to see which RV breaker is causing the house breaker to trip. This should tell you which circuit is causing the problem.
If the circuit consists of outlets then unplug everything from them and see if the breaker still trips. If not, then simply plug the appliances back in until you find the culprit causing the problem.
I hope this info helps but if not feel free to ask for more info. Thanks fo your question and for visiting my site.
Randy SSSSS
thanks Randy ill try that,got a question.i was told that the breaker was tripping because my extention cord was to long drawing to much current ,but it didnt do it before.just curious
Yes George, using a regular extension cord with small wire may cause the breaker to trip if too many amps are being used by your RV electrical system. Running the A/Cs and/or some other such high amp drawing electrical device at the same time will often cause a breaker to trip.
Always use at least a 30 amp cord for a single A/C unit and one rated at 50 amps or more for a 2 A/C unit RV. It's better to err on the safe side and go with the 50 amp cord anyway. Good luck with finding the problem if the cord isn't it!
Randy
thanks Randy,the AC or anything else was not running at the time .breaker tripped as soon as i plugged it to 15amp line at the garage.worked before several times.could the battery trying to charge,cause this .I'll try the things you mentioned thanks....
Yes George, but the power converter breaker is usually in the main 110 volt AC panel too. You should find the culprit when you start with all of the breakers turned off and then turn them on as I suggested.
Randy SSSSS
Hi I have a 2000 sandpiper which all seems to be working properly. I have closed up the unit including slides for the winter. We are planning to open the trailer soon but at this point the electricity is not on. My converter works well and sounds good. Are there batteries or a battery on this 2000 sandpiper. There is npo visable battery behind the propane tanks. HELP!!!
Hello Bruce! I'm not familiar with your model RV so I cannot tell you for sure if you have a battery or not. Some smaller RV's do not have a battery and depend on the converter to simply transform the 120 volt AC current to 12 volt DC to run the particular electrical items.
But if your camper has slide-outs, I would think it has at least one battery. Sometimes the batteries are located beneath the steps and other times in a separate compartment on the outside of the RV. You may be able to follow the wires from the converter to locate the battery as it is charged by the converter.
Sorry I cannot give you more precise info. Thanks for the question and your time.
Randy
Randy, had a problem very last camping trip last year just thought batt. was bad. Bought a new Batt this year. in the middle of the night i hurd the heater start then kick off after just a minute. All lights were dim only power was to the microwave. No breakers kicked and no bad fuses. A little help please. Thanks
Hi Greg. This usually indicates a malfunctioning power converter. I would suggest you recharge the battery with a standard battery charger then turn on all of the lights so you can use a digital multimeter to check to see if the converter is working or not.
With the lights running, check the battery to see if you are getting at least 13 volts DC. If the voltage is slowly dropping, this shows the converter is not putting out enough voltage to operate your 12 volt DC appliances.
If this is not the problem then feel free to ask for more info. Thanks for reading and for the question.
Randy
Randy
I have a problem with my camper. I took it out two weeks ago and plugged into a outlet on a gfci breaker and it tripped. So I moved to a campsite with a non gfci breaker and everthing worked fine. This past weekend we went to the camp ground and I plugged into an outlet (non gfci) and sytem didnt power up so to speak. They items that generally only come on when the camper is plugged in didnt work. Do I hAve bad conveter? Why would this cause the gfci breaker to trip? I checked continuity on the power cord and it is ok. any help would be appriciated
Hi Jeff, I need a bit more info before I can offer a solution. Are all of the 12 volt items working properly, or just those using the 110 volt AC power? If the 12 volt DC items are not operating this could be the fault of the converter.
Randy
Randy
All of the twelve volt items are working fine.
Well Jeff, it appears your converter is fine, so the problem is likely in the 110 volt power panel. Since the converter works, the main breaker is apparently good, so this leaves the individual breakers to check. Breakers will go bad on occasion so this is the next step in tracking down the problem.
A bad connection in the wiring to the breakers can cause a short. This is very possible when the wiring is aboard any moving vehicle and gets shaken around during transit. I hope this info helps!
Randy
Randy,
At one point I turned off the main 30 amp breaker and plugged the camper in. This still tripped the Gfci. Do you still believe it is a breaker?
Puzzling enough, Jeff! Unless a bad ground is the problem, this has me stumped thus far. I can't see how the GFI is being tripped with the main off if the main power cord is good. I assume the converter has its own breaker in the 110 volt AC panel? I forgot to ask earlier. If so, I am stumped at this point. Sorry!
Randy
Randy,
WHen I first checked the power cord there was poor conductivity. I repaired one joint that corrected this problem but the camper will still trip an inline Gfci.
Well Jeff, the cord seems to be the only possible culprit I can see. You might try rigging a temporary cord from regular house type wire--perhaps some 12 to 10 gauge should do it-- to see if it still trips the GFI before replacing the cord. At least this will tell you for sure if the power cord is at fault before going to the expense of replacing it.
debbiesdailyviews 18 months ago
Thank you so much for writing this.
Now although I'm not sure if this info converts to UK..
The simple fact that one dead battery can deaden the others, answers a huge mystery for me.
I can't thank you enough, and have over the yrs been so angry when spending loads of money on repacing what seems to be oh so to quickly dead batterys.
Also enjoyed reading this hub too.