RV and Camper Trailer: Plumbing Repairs and Maintenance
76
Maintenance and repairs
Owning an RV or camper trailer is similar to having a second home. Like your home, it requires maintenance and repair on occasion. The plumbing in your particular camping vehicle requires regular maintenance and inspection if your sojourns to our great campgrounds are to be a success. No one wants the sewer system acting up while they are on vacation, especially their campsite neighbors.
By checking the plumbing at least annually, most plumbing problems can be prevented or repaired before they cause trouble. Leaky faucets should be fixed as soon as possible by replacing the rubber seals and valve seats just as you would in your home. It is a good idea to replace them every two years even if they aren’t leaking.
Since these plumbing parts are usually not subjected to water but a few times a year, they tend to dry out and become hard and brittle. If not changed they may not seal correctly or possibly break. The same goes for the shower and bath fixtures.
Water Supply Lines
The water supply lines can be of different materials but all have one purpose., to deliver water to the sink, bath, shower, or toilet. Flexibility is one common requirement the different materials possess because of the flexing experienced while the unit is being transported to and from the campsite.
Older units may use copper tubing, while newer models use flexible plastic materials. The copper tubing may require a flare tool when replacing or repairing a broken water line, while the flex tubing uses rubber or plastic pressure fittings to insure a good seal. These parts can be found in most Home Depot or Lowe’s building supply stores.
RV and camper trailer toilets have different mechanisms than that used at home. Instead of retaining water in them at all times they use a trapdoor type slide and water flush component to dispose of the waste. The water connection to the toilet is no different than used at home.One of the most common problems with the toilet is incomplete closing of the sliding trap door.
The slide fits snugly into a groove when operating correctly. After a period of time, bits of toilet paper may become lodged in the groove preventing the slide from closing tightly. This will allow air to seep from the waste holding tank causing an odor problem. Carefully clean this groove with a small piece of wire until the slide will seat properly into the groove.
Size Doesn't Matter
Repairs are usually simple
Another common problem with the waste system is the rubber seals contained in the outside valves leading from both the gray water and black water holding tanks. These seals are merely rubber o-rings which fit tightly around the slide valve rods.
These need changing at least every three years because of the exposure to chemicals which may be in the gray or black water tanks. A messy job yes, but better than doing it in the campground. Inspect both holding tanks regularly also.
Any leaks can be easily repaired with patching kits made especially for this purpose. Be sure to follow directions on these products as the hardening time is very short.
In most cases the sewer lines are ordinary ABS black plastic tubing. This pipe, as well as elbows, couplings and other connections can also be purchased at Lowe’s and Home Depot.
You may even want to extend the drain hook up closer to the edge of the unit for easier connection. These repairs only require the correct couplings and a can of cement. It is not a bad idea to carry spare couplings, tubing, and glue along with you on your trips just in case.
Keeping your camping unit in good shape is an ongoing job but well worth the effort. By doing an annual inspection you can rest easy while enjoying the great out doors. And so can your camping neighbors.
Easiest plumbing repairs ever!
 | SharkBite plumbing connections work on all types of pipes and require no glue to attach and also remove just as easy. Simply snap together for a leak-proof fit. perfect for emergency repairs when away from home. For all sizes of pipes. Amazon Price: $3.25 List Price: $8.69 |
 | Replace or repair the old plumbing with this special SharkBite tubing. Amazon Price: $32.98 List Price: $48.38 |
Toilet replacement
There comes a time when the toilet may need replacing because of wear and tear or because the plastic used in some older type toilets can become so brittle it cracks around the flushing valves or where it attaches to the floor.
Depending on which type of toilet you decide to replace your old one with you can spend from around $100.00 to over $200.00. Low profile toilets or oversize models can be substituted for the older model if you so choose.
An example of these types are shown on this same page. There is a variety of prices to choose from also.
In most cases a new toilet can be purchased for a little more than the repair parts cost for the older models. These newer, more efficient model RV toilets have easy to operate flushing valves.and better odor control features than the old types.
Check clearances and plumbing connections before changing the type. Follow installation instructions closely to ensure proper operation. Unless the RV toilet problems are minor it is better to just replace it with a newer model.
RV Replacement Hot Water Heaters
 | Many sizes to choose from! Amazon Price: $287.78 |
 | Amazon Price: $344.10 |
RV Hot Water Heater Replacement
Although many older RV's and campertrailers used propane to heat the water in the water heaters, today electric models are used in many models. Whichever type your camper uses there are repair parts available from most RV parts dealers. Heating elements and valves are usually the culprits needing repairing most often. Gas models need to be cleaned annually for safe and efficient operation. This may be a job for a professional unless you are knowledgeable about propane gas mechanics. Eventually a RV water heater needs replacing. Today's energy efficient models perform better and cheaper and may actually pay for themselves in gas savings over a period of time.
When ordering a new RV hot water heater make sure the dimensions and water capacity will suit your needs. Some changing of water supply fittings may be required. You may wanty to consider one of the "hot water on demand" type units for the kitchen or bathroom sink to keep from using water out of the main water heater. These units are great for eliminating leaky hot water lines running from the main RV hot water heater. Only the cold water line is used.
vote upvote downshareprintflag
- Useful (8)
- Funny (1)
- Awesome (1)
- Beautiful (1)
- Interesting (1)
CommentsLoading...
Hello Mike! I've already published a hub about refrigerator replacement. It's under RV Refrigeration and maintenance and repairs. I'm doing one now just for Airstream travel trailers. You simply but a small electric fridge from Lowe's or Home Depot and adapt it to the old fridge space.
Thanks for the comments and your time!
Hi Randy:
I'm having my faucet replace but while we were waiting for the faucet on order I pressed the fresh water button and there was water in the tank (didn't know), so water sprung up and onto the floor beneath the sink and cabinet area under the fridge. I soaked it up where I could but I'm wondering if any water go in to the furnas area next door, if it would be dangerous to turn on the furnas. Water did come out from under the cabinet area and around the corner and about half way front of the furnas cover. I can't get the cover off, the screws are on too tight so I can't check inside.
There didn't appear to be a lot of water beneath the cabinets and I have let it dry out a couple days and all apears well, like no wet wood. Do you think it would be o.k. to use the furnas? Would it probably be dried out inside there? Should I wait and get an electric screwdriver to open it?
Hello Mike!
Your furnace should be fine to run as the ignition and burner are not very close to the floor at all. I would test run the furnace and watch it for a bit but I don't foresee a problem. It would take a direct soaking of water onto the burner area for damage to occur in most cases.
Thanks for stopping by and for the question.
Randy
That's good news, thanks much!
I didn't see your article about buying a trailer verse a motorhome. In retrospect I probably would have opted for a motorhome. I'm learning. Good articles and thanks for all your good advice!
Glad to be of service, Mike. Both motorhomes and travel trailers have their pros and cons depending on the particular desires of the user. Thanks again for reading my articles and for posting your problem too. Others will no doubt find your experience useful.
Randy
Hi Randy,
When I turn off the bathroom faucets,they both leak.I tried to tighten the fittings,but they are secure.Should I loosen them and try using Teflon tape?If this doesn't work,my concern is that the cold water line is one piece that runs somewhere under the trailer. Can I cut this plastic pipe and use a compression fitting to make the necessary repairs?
Thanks,Brad
Hello Brad,
You should have cut-off valves between the fixture and the water supply lines so repairs can be made easier, Brad. Yes, you can cut the pipe and replace the supply lines with a better pvc coated flex line which should stop any leaks in the faucet connections.
You can install cutoff valves while you are at it as they are very inexpensive and fit the flexible supply lines. Unfortunately, the plumbing in many RV's leaves much to be desired as many are mass produced with economy in mind.
You might try taking the fittings loose to check for any loose or missing o-rings or rubber gaskets before replacing the supply lines. Just make sure the fixture itself is not at fault. A friend had a faucet fixture suddenly start flooding his brand new travel trailer while it was sitting still. You never know!
Good luck with the repairs and thanks for your question!
Randy
Hello,
I have a leaking fresh water line under the raised toilet area, I have removed the toilet but there is no access to the water line. I looked outside and underneath the Class C. I have also removed the bathroom sink and part of the cabinet, I see where the water line enters the toilet area. Do i need to removed the rasied toiled area for access? Thank you!
Hello Roger!
Yes, in some cases the raised area will cover the waterline connections. It depends on the type of installation your RV uses. Access should be apparent in most cases though. Sorry, I cannot say for sure without viewing the installation.
Thanks,
Randy
Hi Randy,
cont. from my previous question.
I pulled the front portion of the rasied toilet section to expose the water line. It had a crack in the tee that went to the toilet. I cut out the old tee and went to home depot and bought a tee. I installed it with hose clamps but it leaked, I removed it and wrapped the it with teflon tape but it still leaks. The water line is the older gray color. Is there another type of tee and another way to install a tee?
Thank you,
Roger
Hello again Roger! Go back to Home Depot and tell whoever is in the plumbing department what your problem is. There are several different adapters you may choose from to replace the old plumbing lines.
One of the best and newest of these adapters is the "SharkBite" or "GatorBite" type fittings which require no threads or clamps to seal the joints and tees. You simply push the lines into the fittings for an easy, no leak seal. They come apart easy too! Check them out, you will be amazed at how simple they are to use!
Good luck!
Randy
i purchased a fema trailer and hooked it up the hot water lines were and still are full of a slimmy fungus. i cant get to the lines in the tub/shower what do i do?
I've got a cracked brass fitting at the end of a water line. How do I remove the old one and replace it. The line has copper compression rings on all the fittings?
Hi Nita! You might try flushing the hot water lines where they connect to the water heater. By closing the valves at the sinks and leaving those in the tub/shower open, you can purge the hot water line by connecting a hose to the line at the water heater.
There may be a type of line flushing chemical you could use just for this type of slime removal, but I'm not aware of any at the time.
Otherwise, the tub/shower surround may have to be removed. Usually, there is a panel which enables one to access the area behind the tub/shower valve fixtures because of the necessity of servicing them.
Good luck!
Randy
Hello Phil. If the copper line is long enough, simply cut it with a tubing cutter and purchase a new brass fitting and compression ferrule.
If the line is too short for this repair, Make an extension using the same size copper tubing while connecting it to the new fitting you just installed.
Anyone at a hardware store can help you with this repair if you take the old fitting and pipe you have cut off with you!
Thanks for reading and good luck on your plumbing repairs!
Randy
Hello,
So I have a 1967 Santa Fe travel trailer that has a bad water system, from fresh water tank, water heater, fridge, black water tank and I need to replace all the lines. There is also some sag in the roof from a previous leak. The old owners painted all the interior white so I want to replace all the interior with fresh paneling. I also wouldn't mind putting new flooring in also. My question is in what order makes the most sense? It looks like ill be gutting most of the interior to redo everything...not sure where to start.
Thanks,
James
Hello James. Sorry to take so long to answer your questions, but with so many other RV repair articles here I have been busy answering questions from RV owners preparing for the upcoming camping season.
Since you plan to gut most of the interior it should be a simple matter to install new plumbing lines and new electrical outlets too. Usually these old classic camper trailers never have enough outlets for the new appliances.
Microwave ovens often pull lots of amperage so you should place it on a circuit alone or with a low amperage accessory so the breaker won't be constantly needing to be reset when the microwave is in use.
You may be interested in reading my other articles which deal with electrical and RV interior repairs, including replacing the floor.
Good luck with your repairs and let me know how your project turns out. Thanks for checking out my articles!
Randy
I have a split in the plastic fill line for my fresh water hose that goes into my holding tank. Will I have to drop the tank to install a new hose?? Or is there an easier way??
@Angie-It depends on your particular RV, Angie. Is there any other way to get to the hose except by dropping it? There are so many different mounting options it's hard to give you the correct procedure.
Randy Godwin
We bought a 2000 dutchman superslide. When I hooked up the water, it started leaking from the cold water hookup in the shower. I tried to plug it off cause we don't use the shower. What size is the water lines they look like a half inch but that size plug was to big and its about to drive me crazy thanks
Michael, I cannot say for certain what size pipe is in your RV. I would suggest getting a "Shark Bite" or "Tiger Bite type of plug which will simply fit over the end of the pipe and plug it easily. Simply cut the supply line and push it on.
These types of new plumbing connections will fit any kind of pipe too! Home Depot or Lowe's will have them. Simply measure the diameter of the pipe before buying one. I hope this will solve your problem for you.
Thanks for the question and your time.
Randy Godwin
Hello i have a 1979 forester travel trailer. It is my first camper and i have already had to patch the roof and replace a wall... Now i found out that all the copper water lines are busted. I am wondering what you would think would be the easiest/cheapest way to replace all of this? also is there a way to test or check the water heater? My next question is do i have to have a professional redo my propane lines or is this something i can do myself? thank you for your advice it is much needed!!
@Cory Myhre-I would suggest using a flex line type water supply for replacing the plumbing using the "shark bite" type of connections. Easy installed and repaired with no chance of the lines vibrating and causing leaks.
Is the water heater electric or gas? Both can be checked and should be no big problem to repair.
It depends on your state laws concerning installing the new gas lines. A pressure check will be needed whatever you decide to do.
Thanks for the questions and for visiting my articles.
Randy Godwin
I was checking my travel trailer in preparation for its first trip out this season and when I flipped on the water pump I heard water spraying behind the shower surround where the faucet is. Obviously a broken or disconnected water line. Can I inspect and repair this myself? And how do I go about removing the surround without damaging things so I can put it back the way it was?
Thanks.
Hi Charles. In most cases there is an access panel located directly behind the shower plumbing fixtures just for the purpose of replacing or repairing them.
Without being able to see your particular set-up, it is impossible for me to advise you on how to access the fixtures.
They are easily repaired and the parts are usually inexpensive. Sorry I cannot help you more with your problem. Thanks for reading and for the question.
Randy Godwin
Hey thanks Randy. I did find the access panel (pretty tight to get your arm into), and it turned out to be the plastic connector on the flex supply line broke off - this trailer is only a couple years old so I can only imaging that it must've been defective to start? Is the hot supply line in danger of going next? I suppose I should replace it with the same type, rather than a stainless steel flex supply line you would use in your house?
Thanks.
Good news, Charles! Yes, I would replace the hot water supply line too because some of these trailers are notorious for having rather cheap plumbing fixtures and connections.
If Flex lines will fit I would use them for replacements too. Often the movement of the trailer during transit will cause the cheap connections to develop leaks.
Thanks for your question and for what you found out concerning your plumbing problem.
Randy
I have to replace the tubing from the valve to supply line on my RV hot water heater. What type of tubing is required on an indoor installation?
Hello Lloyd, usually some type of flex line is required because of the movement of the pipes during transit. Older RVs used copper line but now there are several alternatives. Check out Lowe's or Home Depot.
Randy
Dutchman 32 ft, 1998, tub leaked and floor needs replaced! Gave contractor money for ne shower, well he took money and not been seen since, that was May!
Went to police, he has no lic, dumb thing is he was sent here by good company! Lesson learned never pay for materials till they are in and working!
Now how do I replace shower/tub that sits over wheel? I had priced the one piece units and have enough room then use the wheel as closet, my question is how do I bypass holding tank? By running pvc direct out and connect all three items: 2 sinks and tub?
Yes, I'm in South, I want to wait till weather is cooler and storms pass!
This RV is my son's whom is a student and Navy(16 yrs), he is helping me with his Dad whom has Dementia and Zi with canxer! When I m able this is therpy! I grew up on farm and hubby for 42 yrs we never had much money (Marines/Viet Nam) so Ii adapted! Now I enjoy the idea of 6 ft son getting a shower in a normal shower! He never complains but he has earned a better life! He is single and has served his ountry now his parents!
Money was promised by Gov for school but they aren't paying him, we now need Free advice of how to do this!
In March he and I rplaced walls and floor from RV sitting , with leak we weren't aware of! When ya sick, you go one day at a time!
Now my day needs to be longer, i appreciate any help you can spare for our Navy son, and wore out parents! We are in RV behind him due to decrease in disability pay vs job!
Thanks again...FYI.. Please excuse any weird words. Haven't figured out this spell checker!
Email: ritasmith52@yahoo.com
Hello Rita. Yes, you can bypass the holding tank if you need to. In some cases it is possible to use the black ABS sewer or drain pipe to tap into the old shower drain line instead.
Another option is to use a Tee or Y connection if you want to use the holding tank instead of bypassing it. ABS pipe and fittings are available at any Lowe's or Home Depot type building supply store.
Sounds like you guys are doing a good job of rebuilding the RV, but feel free to ask for more info if needed. Good luck and thanks for your questions.
Randy Godwin
is it possible to raise toilet in a 79 banner royal camper ive a disabled person how'll use it
Hi Lew, yes it should be possible to construct a raised platform for the toilet in any sort of RV. Of course, extending the sewer connection and water supply will be required also.
Feel free to ask for further info if necessary. Thanks for the question and for your time.
Randy Godwin
Hi, Randy!
Our hot water line to the shower is leaking: at first in drips, then floods. We replaced with a flexible hose and PEX fittings and blue, and let dry overnight. When we turned on the hot water via the pump it seemed to work fine, but when we switched to the city connector (at 1/2 pressure) it blew the joint. What did we do wrong?
*glue (not blue)
Hey DG! Try one of the "Sharkbite" type fittings and no glue is required for making the repairs. These no-glue connectors can also be removed easily if needed. Great for all household and RV plumbing applications. Get them at Home Depot or Lowe's builders supply.
Randy
for some reason our toilet is plugged up, we have the line , tries drano, sneakes ,pligging but nothing is working ,,,,,,, help
Have you removed the toilet, Brenda? Often this is the only way to unplug a line in an RV.
Randy
I have a 2006 Prowler camper with slide out...everything in the begining worked great but now have problems...We have had a couple of nites where the weather has gotten real cold and I ran the water to keep the lines from freezing up....everything was fine to start with now having problems...as far as I know nothing ever froze up but I came home the other day and the water wouldnt work at all in the camper...now im not talking using the water pump im talking hooking directly up to the city water....i have clean the filter where you connect the water hose up to the camper but it still wont work no water is coming out....now if i turn on my water pump and fill the tank I get water....but why cant I get any water while hook up to the city water??? Are there other filters I dont know about??? Any help you can give me would be appreciated!!!
Hi Sherry! Yes, there may be a filter inside of the RV which may need cleaning or replacing. Some older models do not have them but it;s possible one may have added.
There may also be a switch or valve which changes the system from pump to city water. I'm not familiar with this RV so I cannot give you more specific info at the moment.
If nothing else, you might contact Prowler and ask for an explanation of how the water system works on your RV. In the meantime, I will see what i can find out and will post here with any pertinent info.
If you find the solution before I do I would appreciate your posting it here to help others with the same problem. Thanks for reading and for your question!
Randy Godwin
I have a leak where the sewer line enters the tank and would like to know what sealant would be best to use.
Hello Paul. It depends on what type of sewer line is used in your RV. If it is black ABS pipe you can find both fittings, pipe, and adhesives at any Home Depot or Lowe's builders supply. It may be necessary to remove a section of pipe and repair it with a new coupling to stop the leak. Feel free to ask if this is not the case.
Randy
MikeNV Level 4 Commenter 2 years ago
Would like to find a hub on replacing RV Refrigerators. Very expensive and few manufacturers. Dealers charge a whole lot for what amounts to a glorified cooling chest.
Many of the repairs you listed above can be done by the do-it-yourselfer.