RV and Camper Travel Trailer : Electrical System Troubleshooting and Repair
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Electrical System Design
RV’s and camper trailers utilize the same types of electrical systems as those used for an average small home. But in addition to the 110 volt electrical supply there may also be lights, fans, refrigerator, or other electrical devices which use a 12 volt supply like that of a car or truck.
This 12 volt DC system powers the refrigerator to keep food cold while the RV or camper trailer is being transported from place to place. The same goes for the lights and fans. It also keeps the on-board batteries fully charged. This 12 volt DC system relies on the 110 volt AC electrical power supply for the needed amperage.
These 12 volt power supplies may be pulled from the RV or camper trailer's electrical system or from the 110 volt campsite power supply. The 110 volt supply is stepped down to 12 volts by running it through a power converter and then to the particular appliance.
Rewiring a Classic RV?
RV AC/ DC Electrical Systems
Most of these systems will switch from the 110 volt AC supply to the 12 volt DC supply automatically in case of a power interruption. These two electrical system are treated independently from each other when diagnosing electrical problems except for determining power to the converter. This translates to:
110 volt power-- > converter-- > 12 volt power-- > 12 volt breaker box -- > refrigerator or lights
As in a home, the 12 volt system has its own set of breakers to control each 12 volt circuit. The lights, fans, or refrigerator may all be on their own circuit depending on the amperage required. If the converter is supplying 12 volts to the breaker panel and the breakers test positive for voltage this leaves the wiring or the particular appliance at fault.
1956 Serro Scotty
Essential Tools and Help Aids
If you are not familiar with electrical wiring or troubleshooting electrical systems there are some very good books available to help you understand and repair common RV electrical problems. I would recommend RV Electrical Systems: A Basic Guide to Troubleshooting, Repairing and improvement for the novice and experienced electrician. It will be an enormous aid to understanding RV electrical systems. This book is listed on this page along with other RV repair manuals.
Another must for tracing down electrical problems is a voltage meter. This handy tool will allow you to check the circuits for continuity and for the correct voltage required for each breaker. A simple test light can be used but will not test for broken circuits caused by bad wiring or other electrical problems. Both of these tools are inexpensive to own and will more than pay for themselves over time. The voltage meter can be used for home electrical problems as well as any other electrical related problem. Both are offered on this page for a reasonable price.
Replacement or Updated RV Power Converters
 | 45 amp replacement RV power converter (breaker panel optional) Amazon Price: $140.99 List Price: $247.15 |
 | 55 Amp power converter with extra protection Amazon Price: $145.99 |
Electrical Circuit Testers and Meters
 | Helps solve those mystery short circuits Amazon Price: $16.90 List Price: $18.49 |
 | This tool is a must for electrical repair Amazon Price: $45.99 |
More RV Repair Books and Accessories
 | Amazon Price: $58.88 List Price: $16.95 |
 | Amazon Price: $15.60 List Price: $22.95 |
 | Amazon Price: $14.50 List Price: $29.95 |
Understanding the 110 Volt System
110 Volt Systems
The 110 volt outlets used in some RVs and camper trailers are prone to shorts because of the way they are installed. Some are merely clipped onto the wiring by cutting into the wires. These types are notorious for not working correctly. Replace these types of outlets with standard house types to put and end to loose connections. Since some of the walls are so thin a smaller receptacle box may be required for the outlet to fit flush in the walls.
Ground fault interrupter outlets are another common cause of electrical problems. These are located in places where a possibility exists of someone touching them with wet hands. They automatically break the circuit when moisture comes in contact with the outlet to prevent shock to the person touching them. A simple reset button must be pressed for the circuit to once again be completed. On occasion they will need to be replaced or the other outlets on the line will not work either. Pay close attention to the instructions when replacing these GFIs.
In older RVs and camper trailers you may still find fuses instead of circuit breakers used. Because of the advent of many new electrical devices these older type fuse systems may not provide enough amperage to handle a microwave or other high amp appliance without blowing a fuse or kicking a breaker. Simply replacing the fuse or breaker with a higher amp substitute may be all that’s required. Replacement of the entire breaker box may be the only option remaining if this doesn’t solve the problem.
The newer RVs and camper trailers may have two RV A/C rooftop units which require more amperage than the older models to operate without kicking the standard 30 amp power supply used by many campgrounds. Fortunately, many campgrounds and RV parks now provide 50 amp service for these types of units. When making reservations or checking in be sure to ask about the availability of a 50 amp hook up if you own a unit with multiple A/C units.
Keeping your electrical systems in good and safe working order insures a trouble free camping trip with no sudden power outages to ruin the trip. Most problems can be repaired easily if you understand how the system works. RV electrical manuals along with a few inexpensive tools are well worth the cost of their purchase. If you are completely confused by electrical wiring there are also some very good basic books to start you off. It isn’t very hard at all to check electrical circuits, switches or outlets with an inexpensive volt meter. Just remember, when touching any wires be sure the power to that particular circuit is off. If in doubt, turn off the main breaker or unplug the RV or camper trailer from the power supply. Happy Camping!
More RV Repair Articles
- RV Camper Power Converter Troubleshooting, Repair, and Replacement
Tips for troubleshooting and repairing an RV power converter. Question and comment section for RV owners. - RV and Camper Travel Trailer : How to Repair or Replace the Floor
- Basic RV and Camper Trailer Maintenance and Repairs
- RV and Camper Trailer: Plumbing Repairs and Maintenance
- RV AC And Camper Rooftop Air Conditioner Maintenance, Troubleshooting, and Repairs
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Thanks for the info Vanne, I didn't know about your Scotty connection.
Problem with the brake pressure guages on our 2008 TropiCal LX 35 A by National RV. While driving down the the road the pressure guages go from 120lb. to 0 in about three seconds and then back to 120lbs. in about 10 to 15 seconds. This hapened while on our way home to Alaska. They told us in Watson Lake that they could not fix it without electrical Schmatics but don't worry it is just a short in the system $100.00 please. In White Horse the Freightliner Checked the system out and said they could not find any thing wrong but don't worry the brakes are working fine $130.00 please. We need 12 volt electrical schmatics as everyone says they can't fix it without them. We would like to have this problem fixed befor we leave Juneau to go back to Tucson this fall.
If you cannot obtain schematics from the company then it is possible that you may check with other RV manufactures using similar drive trains and electrical sensors used to monitor brake pressure.
Usually there are several different companies using the same systems so the schematics may be the same as on your unit. It may be possible to install a mechanical pressure indicator for peace of mind if you cannot solve this problem before your next trip.
Any mechanic worth his salt should be able to tap into the pressure line and rig a gauge which will work. Good luck on solving this problem and thanks for reading my article!
Randy
I just purchased a used 2006 Jayco Jayflight. This is my 1st travel trailor.
I have a new deep cycle battery. When I hooked up to the 30amp
outlet, turned everything on, AC, water heater, micro-wave, etc; after about
two hours my lights began to dim. I checked my battery and it was down to
46%.. I hooked up my charger and it maintained my battery throughout the
weekend. What would be causing my battery to discharge while plugged into
a 30amp outlet? Someone, please " HELP" Little Richie!!!
Hello Richie! Sounds like the 110 volt AC to 12 volt DC converter is malfunctioning. This is a common problem for older trailers.
The converter changes the 110 volt AC electrical supply into 12 volts DC in order to power the lights, roof vents, and battery. Check using a multimeter!
Thanks for reading
Thanks Randy! I appreciate the info. Would you
mind telling me where this convertor is located so
I can check it?
Little Richie
From: Louisiana Cajun Country
Not sure in your particular RV model, Richie! The converter is usually situated close to the electrical breaker box. In some models it may be under the bed. It is a vented box shaped item and will hook into the 12 volt breaker panel. Hope this helps.
I have a 1988 Coleman pop up camping trailer. Can someone please tell me what I need to do to be able to plug my refrigerator into the plug-in and make it work. It has battery power that works all my lights plus a 12v converter. Do I need two batteries. Do I need to hook something up special? Maybe it needs a new breaker. It works if I have electricity at a campground. Sorry I'm just a dumb female when it comes to this kind of stuff.
If the fridge works while hooked to the electrical power at the campground it should work at home! Are you using the same outlet at home or are you plugging the fridge directly into the campground outlet?
Some RV refrigerators have to be switched to 12 volts in order to be powered by the battery. You might try using an extension cord instead of using the outlet in the camper. Please clarify!
Hi Randy,
I guess I should be a little clearer. I'm talking about plugging the fridge in in the trailer. How do I make it work without any outside or camp ground electricity? Or is this even possible? I have an extra battery box and some long cables that came with the trailer. Do I need to maybe hook these up also and if so where? I need "Trailer Electrical 101" Sorry!
You would like to operate the fridge on 12 volts DC? If your fridge is a 3-way model, it will work on 110 volts AC, 12 volts DC, or on LP gas. If it is a two-way model, it will only operate on 110 volts AC or on LP gas.
Some older model RV refrigerators have a switch which must be put into the desired position before the unit will work! Others are automatic and there is no need to switch manually.
Check the LP gas tank(s) to be sure there is ample gas if your fridge is a 2-way model! It will not work through the power outlet unless the camper is hooked up to a 110 volt supply!
If it is a 3-way model the power converter may be at fault and is not furnishing enough amperage to operate the heating element. The 12 volt heating element itself could be bad also! Hope this helps you solve your problem! Feel free to ask more questions if you need to!
The 12 volt system is normally only used while transporting the trailer or motorhome. The battery from the towing vehicle keeps the one on the trailer charged while in transit. I have no idea what the long cables are for, though!
Thanks!
Thanks Randy!
This is a new little fridge that I bought from Costco. So now I know that it will only work if I have a 110 volt power source. So I should have bought a 12 volt. I have a cigarette lighter that is inside the trailer that works. Would one of those Ice Chests that plug into a cigarette lighter work? Sorry to be a pest!
Ah! Now you tell me, ddbugger! Ha! Yes, one of those ice chests will work, but your battery will not last long without being hooked up to a charger. I have one of those in the car and it is okay for a little while. But kills the battery after a few hours if the engine isn't running!
The new ones might be better, though! Are you unable to plug your camper into a nearby outlet or are you using it away from any electricity? Perhaps a small generator, costing less than $90 from BFdeals.com, might be the answer!
Don Carroll asked:
"I have a 36 ft Winnebago, Battery questions for you. I have a 12 V deep well battery for a starter battery, and two golf cart, Trojan, 6-V, battery's for the house batterys. Every things is working fine, question: 1.-
I put the RV in storage every two months, for three months then back out for two months. When I do this , I have found out that I get better battery life by un-hooking both sets of battery's, for that storage period, and putting both the 6 V's and the 12V on a three stage battery charger. Question is, is there any way I am hurting the RV during that time with it disconnected from battery's ?"
I cannot see how this could conceivably do any harm, Don! There shouldn't be anything on board your RV which would be affected by doing this. Sorry I could not allow your link, it set off warnings on my computer!
Thanks for reading!
I have a 2005 KZ Sportsman 2405. Have not had any problems with it (serious problems) until this weekend. When pluged in to a 30a plug, at times (maybe 2-3 times during night and same during day), the low voltage alarm will sound off and the lights will flicker. It appears that the fridge and microwave are unaffected. I swapped out my battery with a neighbor and I thought my problem was solved- but no, hours later during the night, the problem started again. It does appear with the "neighbors" battery, the problem is less. Help please.
This sounds as if your 110 volt AC to 12 volt DC power converter may be malfunctioning, Troy! The fridge, if it is an absorption type, can operate on both propane or 110 volts if the 12 volt system is malfunctioning. The microwave uses 110 volts AC so the battery or the converter would have no effect on its operation.
I would suggest using a multimeter to see if the converter is giving you the full 12 volts needed!
I hope this info helps you with your problem! Thanks!
Hi Randy,
I have a dumb question. We just bought an old pop up and it has a 15 amp electrical system, the stae park we are going to go for our first trip only has 20 amp supply. Can i plug my system into this supply? Thanks for your help, have searched and cannot find an answer.
Hello back at you, Shannon! There are no dumb questions, just dumb answers and that's where I come in! LOL! You may use the 20 amp supply with no problems as long as you do not use more amps than the 20 amp hookup can supply.
An appliance such as a microwave oven, operating at the same time as a hair dryer, may cause the breaker in your camper, or on the campsite receptacle, to trip but this will do no harm! Merely reset the breaker and try not to use these high amperage appliances at the same time.
It is possible to replace the breaker in your camper with a 20 amp or even 30 amp breaker if you need more outlets or are planning on using a high amp appliance.
I hope this allays your fears about the power supply and that you have a great first trip in your new "old" pop-up camper! Thanks for reading my articles and for the question!
Randy
What is the formala for cacalating how long a marine deep cycle battery will last pulling a 110v 3 anp load through an inverter. I'd like to take a c-pac machine camping this fall. It is listed at 3 amp Max.
Sorry Eston, I do not have the formula you are looking for! it would depend on the amperage of the deep cycle battery used and the wattage of the c-pac!
Vanner power inverters are used for this purpose I think so you might google them for more info on the type of inverter and battery needed. Thanks and sorry I couldn't give you the info needed1
Mr Godwin---I nave a 2000 31c HI-LO trailer with a problem in the 12v lighing system.Some of the lights work and some don't.Where do I start checking for the problem?
Thanks
towerclon
@towerclon : Start at the 12 volt DC breaker box. Using a multimeter or test light, check each breaker at the point where the wires lead away from the breaker to the lights, fans, etc. If you find the breakers are working properly, check each non-working light to see if power is getting to them.
More than likely, there is a bad connection at one of the lights which is preventing the electrical current from continuing on to the other fixtures. A broken connection is easier found if you use a multimeter using the OHM settings.
Thanks for reading and I hope these suggestions help you find the problem!
Mr. Goodwin,
We have a 2010 Skyline Nomad and are having a major problem when using our generator (Champion 3500/4000). A few months ago we took at trip that required us to use our generator. During the trip the generator stopped working. It would start and run, but would not put out any power and could not be reset. When we returned home we connected our travel trailer to our power supply at home and nothing would work. We put it in the shop and they replaced the converter system. We just assumed we had a bad generator and left it at that. We replaced the generator with a new one and again made a trip last weekend that required us to use the generator. Thirty minutes after connecting the generator again the same thing happened. Generator would start and run, but would not put out any power. We took our trailer again to the dealership to be repaired. They are telling us that they can not find anything wrong with the electrical system. We are at a loss as to what to do next. We are afraid to connect another generator to the trailer because we can't afford to lose another one. By the way, the only thing that was on in the trailer at the time it fried the generator was the A/C system.
We would appreciate any help or advice you might could give us.
Jeff and Angel
Hi, Jeff and Angel! I am reluctant to try and give you advice which might lead to further damage your generator or camper. There seems to be a direct short somewhere in your electrical system which is doing the damage. I cannot see why the dealership cannot find the problem if it is knocking out the generator so quick.
If the camper works fine when connected to a normal 110 volt hookup it has to be between the generator and the breaker box. I'm sorry, I cannot give you further advice without being able to visually inspect your camper. I advise you to get a knowledgeable electrician to check it out for you before you try another generator. Obviously, the dealer doesn't have one! Sorry!
Randy Godwin
I have a 1988 Coleman Sequoia. I just need some basic operational knowlwedge of the electriccl converter and how it works. I've never owned a trailer before. One question is whe I switch the converter to 110, does it charge the trailer mounted external 12 volt bettery? Also, when you use the 110 does the power run throug the battery then to the lights? Just simple questions. Any help would be nice thanks.
Hello Clint! Sorry to take so long answering you but I just returned from camping in a spot with no internet access!
Many RV's use the converter to charge the external batteries and yours probably does too. The converter only changes 110 volt AC to 12 volt DC when the camper is plugged into the 110 hookup. No, the converter should operate independently from the battery but is also connected to it. Hope this is clear! Thanks!
I own a 1998 Fleetwood Bounder, on 2 different times now i have been hooked up at a camp site (30 amp) and loose all my 12 volt supply ( lights, thermostat for Air Cond) i have found that the batteries are drained to about 8 volts. I replaced the 30 amp cord because 1 of the tabs was loose and not making a good connection, also replaced one of the battery terminals, charged the batteries back up and everthing started working again, but i still don't know was caused the problem. because when i had low 12 volt power, i had 120 volt power, I thought that if i had 120 volt then i should have good 12 volt, any help wood be nice. Thanks
This sounds like a AC to DC converter problem, William! You might check the output from the converter at the 12 volt breaker panel to see if your converter is delivering enough voltage.
Since you mentioned the loose tabs on the 30 amp supply there is also the possibility a bad ground might have affected the converter output. If the loose tab was the ground connection this may have been your problem!
The converter also keeps the on-board batteries charged in many cases, so it may not be working properly. A multimeter should help you find the problem!
I hope this helps and feel free to ask further if you think I may help! Please let me know what you find out, others may benefit from your solution!
Thanks
Randy
just inspected the roof of my slideout on my 07 keystone z11 there a blister about 3"in diameter, it dosen't seem to be reptured but pin holes are hard to see,should i worry or how do i repaire...larry
These blisters are not uncommon on RVs parked out in direct sunlight for long periods of time, Crosscut! They will eventually rupture and may cause a leak even if they aren't doing so now.
It may be best to cut them out and use a roofing patch made for just such problems. You may find examples of these products on my RV Roof Repair hub!
Thanks for reading!
I have a 06 31ft rockwood and i have a power problem can you help me? My lights cycle from bright to dim every min or two. Even if only one or two lights are on. When i have a lot of stuff on heater, lights, water and tank heater or even just one of the big power suckers it drains down my battery. When they go off it charges back up . And than goes back to the same dim and bright again. I have replaced the battery whitch was bad and the problem did get i tiny bit better . I hear a hum of a fan coming from the converter when the lights and everything else amps up. And can you run your camper without a battery when hucked up to a outlet? I live in my camper and it is always powered should i do anything differant with the power or battery ?? Please help me Thanks...
@Dustin-
This sounds like your power converter is at fault, Dustin! The charging sequence is not functioning properly, perhaps a bad resistor.
Check out my RV power converter repair and replacement article for more info on troubleshooting your converter problem. If not, feel free to ask me for further info!
Thanks for reading!
Hi
I just purchased a 2005 Cub 214 Hybrid. This is my first real camper that was not a popup so I am trying to get used to all the features. My question is this. My lights do not work when the camper is plugged in and the battery is not connected. Does the battery have to be connected at all times? When I connected the battery the lights did work but became dim very quickly which I assume is because the battery needs to be replaced. Is there a way to run the camper without the battery?
Sorry if these questions seem dumb but I have never had a camper with a battery.
Hello Mark! This also sounds as if the RV power converter is not working correctly. Yes, the battery should be connected at all times. The power converter should keep the battery charged to a peak level depending on how many lights, fans, etc. are running at the time.
If the resistor in your converter is bad it will not charge the battery and the lights will dim. Check out my converter repair hub for more info. Thanks for stopping by!
Here's the link to the article http://hubpages.com/t/1b51d0
I have a 2009 Weekend Warrior Toybox. I took the batteries out to charge at home while my trailer was in storage. When I went back to place them I accidently switched the polarity while hooking them up. This cause my fuses to blow. I replace the fuses and hooked up the batteries correctly now. But, my radio, generator won't come on. I pretty much checked all the other fuses at the inverter and other locations and they are all fine. What could be the problem?
This is a new one on me, Adam! You may need to check the system with a multimeter to ascertain the voltage is getting to the radio and that the generator doesn't have a malfunctioning breaker or switch. I will check for further info concerning your problem.
Sometimes reversed polarity will burn out the resistor in the converter causing some parts of the system to malfunction. Check the voltage going to and coming from the converter itself!
Thanks
Randy
If i have a 30 amp converter can i up grade to a bigger one like say a 40 amp ? With out upgradeing anything else ? Would it be less strain on my camper? A guy at the camper place said it would be a good idea being that my camper should have a higher amp converter do to its size. He gave me a funny look and figured that i was mistaken on the size of converter that i had as i told him it was a 30 amp. Looking to get a second thought on this if you could shed some light on it . I am in the dark with the converter thing . thanks always for the help your page is very helpful..
It does get confusing sometimes, Dustin! Are you sure you only have a 30 amp converter and are not referring to the 30 amp 110 volt breaker panel? Most RV parks furnish either 30 or 50 amop hookups and sometimes both.
Normally, a 50 amp hookup is needed only if the unit has 2 rooftop air conditioners and need the extra amperage. Just to clarify the difference in a 30 amp breaker box and a 30 amp power converter.
The size of the power converter needed depends on what and how many 12 volt DC lights, fans, etc. the unit has. The more amperage the converter, the more 12 volt DC items you can operate. Check the upper limit in your 12 volt DC breaker box to see if it will handle a higher amperage power converter.
You might want to check out this article about power converters.
I have a 2005 Cougar by Keystone and this weekend while my furnace was running the power on one side of my camper went out including my refridge the lp alarm went off. after about 45 minutes it came back on, it did this twice and each time it would reset itself. It did not blow a fuse or trip the breaker and the third time it wouldn't reset so i had now power to the furnace, fridge or anything on one side of my camper
Hey Ronnie! All of these things run on 12 volt DC power which is provided by the power converter. The power converter changes the incoming 110 volt AC power to 12 volt DC and also keeps the onboard batteries charged.
If only some of the 12 volt items, such as lights, fans, fridge, furnace thermostat, etc. are not working then this will be a problem with a breaker in the 12 volt DC control panel box.
If all of them are not working it may be the main 12 volt breaker or the power converter itself. More info may help me give you better advice.
Thanks
How would it reset itself if i done nothing if it was a breaker
It didn't trip any breakers but there was one breaker that when i tripped it, it would cut everything in the camper off and it wasn't the main breaker, I couldn't figure that out
It is not uncommon for a breaker to go bad and cause the circuit to short out until it cools off! It will then resume working until it happens again. It will not kick of as it normally does and needs replacing.
There are two panels, each with a main breaker! The 12 volt panel is where you should look. The power converter may be on one of the 110 volt breakers.
You really need a good multimeter to check out the short. Check the breaker which controls the items which went off first!
I have a coachmen catalina lite trailer. My battery does not hold a charge for more than a day or two. I have replaced the battery and the power converter. When it is plugged in to 110v it shows that the battery is fully charged which is not the case when i am on battery only it displays accurately. It still is not charging. Help
Hello Ken! Have you checked the voltage coming from the power converter itself when the battery starts to get low? Often, a bad ground will cause strange things to happen. Make sure all grounding points are making good contact. This includes the ground on the battery too.
A multimeter will help out tremendously in ferreting out these type problems.
Randy
I have read a lot on here before asking my question so I may have answered my own question. I have a 2003 Coleman I just bought. I tried lighting the fridge, it acted like it lit (big puff sound) but did not appear to stay lit. (Used a lighter to light it) did not stay lit. My battery is dead..... so must not be keeping the valves open... right????
This is a common problem, Joe. After a few seasons the orifice may be clogged with soot or carbon which doesn't allow enough gas to remain ignited.
Try cleaning the orifice with a pin or needle and by gently tapping on it. If you have an air compressor it may be necessary to disconnect the gas line from the regulator on the tank and pressurizing the lines with compressed air.
The regulator doesn't allow enough pressure to blow out the excess soot from the orifice. Try this as a last resort though. The battery being dead could also keep the thermostat from allowing the gas to ignite.
Perhaps cleaning and charging the battery will fix your problem. Thanks for reading my articles and feel free to ask for further info.
Randy
i have a 2004 21ft surveyor and the cooling fan keeps cutting in and out every 60 seconds runs for about 1 minute then cuts off in the electrical panel. any suggestions
A David Walsh--Either the fan is overloading the breaker or the breaker itself is faulty. I assume it is a vent fan and runs on 12 volts. More than likely the bearings in the fan are bad which causes the fan to pull more amps until the breaker trips.
Try lubricating the fan bearings with a light oil and run it once again. It is also possible the fan may not be the only thing running on the same circuit.
Good luck and thanks for your question!
Randy
I just bought a 2004 Gulfstream Ultra and it was delivered with the genertaor running. Everything checked out ok and when I plugged into a RV park 30 amp outlet it was ok. The next night I stopped with out plugging in and in the morning the battery was dead and nothing worked. I charged the battery at O'reilly and they said the battery was good. next day night dead battery. System short?? How do find it? Tmac
@Tmac--Did you plug into the 30 amp service the second day or run the generator at all? If you had the RV plugged into the service outlet and the battery still went dead, you have a problem with your power converter.
I'm not sure on your model, but I think the generator puts out 110 volts, just like the 30 amp campground hookup. Do you have a switch for using either generator or campground hookup? If so, make sure it is in the correct position.
You really need a multimeter to check if your power converter is putting out voltage to the battery to keep it charged up. It should read 3-13 volts, depending on the battery charge level at the time checked.
Feel free to ask for more info if you need it!
Randy
I recently bought a 97 Gulfstream Conquest. I have never owned a RV before. I can't get the electrical to work in the RV while on the road, only while plugged in or with the generator. Is there a switch I need to flip or check something to get it to work?
Hi Reese,
Unless the generator is working while you are in transit, only the lights and refrigerator will be operable. If these aren't working, it may be the batteries at fault.
Not sure if you have a switch or not. Sorry!
Randy
I recently purchased a 2002 Starcraft Travelstar camper which has an electrical problem. The converter has 2 30 amp blade type fuses on the 12v side that are blown. All 12v systems seem to work when the battery is charged however the converter should charge the battery when plug into the 30 amp service, but it's not happening that way. It appears to be a Centurion Converter installed in this camper and I would like to know what the 2 30 amp fuses on the 12v side connect to so I maybe able to locate the short? It obviously is shorted to ground because as soon as I connect the battery it blows those 2 fuses. I'm just not sure where to start.
You indeed have a direct short of some sort, Randy. I would suggest checking the battery terminals with a voltage meter before connecting them to the battery to see what voltage the converter is putting out.
It sounds as if the extra voltage from the battery is overloading the lines and causing the fuses to blow. I'll see if I can find out more about your particular converter and post back here.
Randy
I have a 2002 Coachmen Cross Country. I just installed new batteries and a new 60 amp charger/converter. None of the 12-volt electrical system inside the coach works unless the RV is plugged in to my house or unless the RV is running. (it quit working before I installed those things) I have ruled out a bad battery disconnect switch because when it's plugged in to the house, the switch successfully turns the coach batteries on and off. Any ideas? I'm not sure what else to troubleshoot.
Sounds like a puzzler, Bob! You might have to trace the voltage from the battery to the 12 volt breaker panel with the 110 volt pigtail unplugged.
You know the batteries should be charged if the power converter is working correctly, so start with them, checking for the correct voltage and then to the 12 volt breaker panel.
If you are getting at least 12 volts into the panel at this point, your system should work fine.
Let me know what you find out after checking these components!
Randy
I have a 2008 Forest River Cardinal travel trailer that is having the exact same problem as Bob's, except it only works when plugged into the house. And that's not enough voltage to run the slides in. It's terrible when you're in a campsite 50 miles from Timbuk2 and you can't get your slides in. In trouble shooting, we've come to the conclusion that there's a circuit breaker somewhere between the battery and the converter. I just can't find it. That may be Bob's problem too. So far, the only helps I'm finding are generic and I've gotten NO RESPONSE from Forest River about it.
Hello Gary, you may be correct in your guess about the circuit breaker, but if so, it should not be that hard to find. There are so many different RV's it's difficult to know about all of their particular wiring diagrams.
I'll try to find a wiring diagram for your model, or one similar, to see if there is any such breaker in line. I doubt there is though.
You might try running a temporary wire from the batteries to the converter to check if there is a problem with the present connection. This should tell you something at least.
I assume the batteries are holding a good charge and have plenty of solution in them. They will show to be fully charged in some cases, but when high amperage is needed-such as to run the mentioned slide-the batteries discharge very quickly with the power converter not providing enough amperage by itself to operate the slide.
Have you tried using a multimeter to check the battery while someone attempts to operate the slide? Check the voltage before and during the operation of the slide mechanism. An amp meter would be of great assistance for this check.
Sorry I cannot be of more help to you, Gary. Please come back and tell me what you find out. This has me curious now.
Randy Godwin
I have a 2003 Jayco jayfeather. When I am on shore power or generator power everything works fine. However, when I am only on battery power everything works except for my electrical outlets. I have replaced the GFI and checked the connections by the battery and into the camper and everthing looks good. The fuses and circuit breakers are also fine. The GFI does not test/reset when on battery but is fine on shore power. Any hints on the best place to start looking? Thanks.
Your batteries will not supply power to the 110 volt outlets, Mark. Unless you have a generator on board and running, or are plugged into a 110 volt ac shore or campground outlet, you will have no power in the electrical outlets. Sorry!
Randy Godwin
I have a 2010 23 foot travel trailer. My wife and kids just went camping last week. Prior to going, we had the trailer plugged into the same outlet at the house we have always plugged into. The electrical worked perfect. When they got there, after one day into the camping trip and still having the electric work fine, all of a sudden the electrical post at the campsite kept tripping. We have a heavy duty Yellow Jacket extension cord that has always worked fine. They just got home today, we plugged the same cords into the same outlet here at the house, and it trips the GFI every time it is plugged in. Can you help? Some nice old man at the campsite loaned them a big black cable (the same size as the one that came with the trailer) to use during their stay. What could have happened?
@Scott-When you say it now trips the GFI at home, do you mean a GFI outlet where you plug in the old extension cord?
I would use a multimeter to check for a short in the cord as this seems to be your problem. Most likely the male or female end of the cord has a short. New ends will probably fix you right up.
Thanks for the query and for visiting my article.
Randy Godwin
Thanks Randy. I have 3 heavy duty extension cords. I have tried all three of them and they all trip the breaker at home (the outlet in the garage). Luckily this outlet is pigtailed to an outlet with a GFI outlet in the garage, so I don't have to run to the basement every time I trip it. I talked to my dad and he thought it might be a bad converter box in the trailer. What do you think? Thanks so much for responding to my question. I really appreciate it.
Hello again, Scott. Try turning off all of the breakers in the RV's 110 volt breaker panel except the main before plugging in the cord.
Then turn the breakers to the "on" position one at a time until the GFI trips. Then repeat the process and switch the suspected circuit on first to see if it still trips the GFI. This may tell you which circuit is causing the breaker to overload.
You may have to check each outlet or appliance on that circuit to find the culprit causing the trouble.
Randy
The "Radio" circuit is the culprit. Everything else runs fine. Much better. Ideally we'd like to have the radio. Any advice on getting that one piece fixed? As usual, thank you very much for your insight.
Is the only radio the only thing powered on the entire circuit? Does the radio still work? It could be a short in the power connection to the radio.
Glad you found the major problem, even if the radio doesn't work. :)
Randy
I Have a l998 Ultra Ideal. I live in it Full time in a permanate
location. Can I switch the Refrigerator from battery power to
full electric power ?
thanks
Hi Lori. Unless your fridge has a manual switch, it should automatically switch from battery to 110 volt power supply.
In fact, in some cases the fridge may only use the battery to power the thermostat and use propane when not hooked to the 110 volt power supply.
I hope this info is what you are looking for.
Thanks for the question and for checking out my article.
Randy Godwin
hey Randy, in trying to help a friend out, found that in their fifth wheel when plugged into 120 volt ac power, the fridge will not work - but previously worked on lp propane - any ideas ?
Hey Rob!
Check the electrical heating element as it works independently from the propane heating unit. The element may not be heating the ammonia solution inside the fridge absorption system.
I hope suggestion this helps with your friend's problem.
Thanks for the question!
Randy Godwin
Randy - if the frig was presumed shot , could it be removed and replaced with a standard 120 volt AC unit ?
Sure Rob. I've replaced several absorption refrigerators with 110 volt models. It is a fairly simple job and costs much less than buying a new absorption model. Check out this article to see how I replaced an RV fridge in an Airstream with a 110 volt model.
RANDY, I HAVE A 24 ft TRAVEL TRAILER. 110 AC EVERYTHING WORKS. WHEN I'M ON THE ROAD AND PLUGED INTO MY TRUCK, THE 12 VOLT DC, EVERYTHING WORKS. WHEN IT IS SITTING IN THE DRIVEWAY AND "NOT" PLUGED INTO 110 AC, NOTHING WORKS ON THE 12 VOLT DC. BATTERY IS FULL CHARGED AND I HAVE 12 VOLTS ON BOTH SIDES OF THE FUSES. ( THE 12V DC DID WORK AT ONE TIME AND IT WOULD QUICK WORKING THEN WORK AGAIN. NOW IT DOESN'T WORK.) WHERE DO I GO FROM HERE? CAN YOU PLEASE HELP?? "I HOPE"
This might be a problem in your converter, Mel. It does seem strange you are getting 12 volts from the fuses but nothing works. Try hooking up a regular 12 volt battery charger to the batteries to see if this makes a difference.
If so, the power converter may be at fault. Some have auto switches or relays which may not be operating correctly. If not, please let me know.
Thanks for reading and the query.
Randy Godwin
HI RANDY, I JUST PUT THE CHARGER ON THE BATTERY AND IT MADE NO DIFFERENCE.
DO YOU THINK I SHOULD SPEND 250.00 PLUS FOR A CONVERTER?
IT CONVERTS THE 110 AC. WHAT DO YOU THINK?
THANKS FOR YOUR TIME.
Not yet, Mel! If the charger made no difference then something else appears to be wrong. The RV power converter is merely a battery charger with a few more components. If the lights or other 12 volt DC items do not operate when the charger is attached then you must have a short somewhere else.
I cannot understand why the power is reaching the output side of the fuses and stopping there. If you have a 12 volt test light then use it instead of the multimeter to recheck the fuses. This just doesn't add up if the RV works while plugged into the vehicle.
Randy
HI RANDY, I'M A HAPPY CAMPER AGAIN. I WAS WORKING ON THE TRAILER AGAIN THIS MORNING. I TRIED EVERYTHING TO FIND MY PROBLEM. I THOUGHT I WOULD PULL THE RADIO OUT TO SEE IF I COULD SEE ANYTHING. DIDN'T KNOW WHAT TO LOOK FOR, AS I WAS PULLING IT OUT THE RADIO CAME ON. I TRIED THE LIGHTS AND EVERYTHING WORKS. I CHECKED THE WIRES ON THE BACK OF THE RADIO AND FOUND NOTHING. MUST BE SOMETHING INSIDE THE RADIO. IT'S FUNNY THAT IT KEPT EVERYTHING ELSE FROM WORKING.
I JUST WANT TO SAY THANKS FOR YOUR HELP.
SIGNED: "HAPPY CAMPER"
That's great Mel! Now that you mention the radio problem, I remember another RV owner who had the same problem not long ago. This must be a problem associated with a certain type of radio or the connections going to it.
Sorry I didn't remember this past incident so I could have perhaps suggested you check the radio. I bet I won't forget again! I must have "old timers." LOL!
I'm so glad you didn't order a new power converter only to discover it wasn't the problem. Thanks so much for posting your solution here where it might help other RV owners with their electrical problems.
The radio must have a direct short somewhere or perhaps an internal malfunction.
Thanks again, Mel!
Randy
I STILL NEED HELP RANDY! I TURNED ON THE LIGHTS A COUPLE MORE TIMES AND NOW THEY DON'T COME ON. PULLED THE RADIO OUT AND TOOK THE FUSE OUT. STILL NO LIGHTS. WHAT IN THE WORLD CAN IT BE? I'M FIT TO BE TIED. THIS IS A GOOD ONE HEY? I'LL LET YOU KNOW IF I FIND ANYTHING.
Gee Mel, you got my hopes up for nothing? LOL! You might try pulling the fuses one at a time to see if there is a short on a particular circuit. Especially the circuit the radio is on since it seemed to affect the lights last time.
The lights working while the RV is plugged into the vehicle still has me puzzled! I feel sure you will find the problem if you keep searching. It's times like this I wish I could inspect the system personally. Yes, please check back later and tell me what you've found.
Don't panic!
Randy
OK RANDY, THIS IS FOR REAL. "IT IS FIXED." I'M ALMOST ASHAME TO TELL YOU. AFTER A HOUR OR SO OF TRYING TO FIND IT THIS MORNING, I ENDED UP WITH A "BAD EYELET CONNECTION" ON THE GROUND WIRE AT THE BATTERY. IT WAS STILL CONNECTED. COULD NOT PULL IT OFF, BUT FELT LIKE I COULD TURN IT A LITTLE. CUT IT OFF AND CRIMPED ON A NEW ONE. EVERYTHING WORKS.
THANKS AGAIN RANDY
MEL
Great news, Mel! I knew you would eventually find the problem. Now go and enjoy your next camping trip.
Thanks for telling me what you've found.
Randy
We have a 27ft travel trailer. My husband turned on the air to the lowest temperature (40). After a while I went in and turned it up to 70. It shut off, the lights went dim and the air unit would not work. Some plugs worked, the microwave display was on but the refridgerator did not work. We checked the fuses and breakers and cannot find the problem. Can you help?
Does this AC unit have a thermostat on the wall or is it in the AC unit ceiling assembly? If it is a wall mounted thermostat the problem may be in the 12 volt DC breaker panel as some units use the 12 volt system to operate the thermostat.
I assume you've checked the 110 volt AC panel with a multimeter?
Randy Godwin
Help us please, My brother owns a 2005 Rockwood 5th wheel trailer and he accidently plugged in his power cord into a 220 outlet and now he has no power in his trailer. As I have read these article on electrical problem I believe that he might have to replace the power converter or should he replace the circuit breaker he tell me that he has no power at all not even battery power. He tells me that he might have to replace his microwave and refrigerator. Please help us do the right thing and help us fix this mess.
Hello Anita. If your brother's RV has no power at all, including 110 volt AC power, then the power convert is receiving no electricity to convert to 12 volts DC.
I would start by troubleshooting the 110 volt panel at the main breaker. Check the power coming out of the 110 volt main breaker to be it is passing through the main.
If there is power on the hot side of the main, then check each breaker on the hot side until you find the circuits without any power going though them.
The power converter only supplies elec. to the thermostat and control board of the fridge, the lights, the thermostat controlling the furnace, and vent fans.
You must get the power restored to the 110 volt power panel before you can check the power converter or anything it powers.
I would first suspect the 110 volt AC main breaker in the power panel as it should have tripped when the 220 volt surge first reached it. It may have to be replaced before you get any power to the rest of the RV.
Let me know what you found out and we will go from there, Anita. I'm on vacation now so I may not be able to get back with you until later today. Tell your brother not to panic yet. We will eventually chase down the problem but it may take a little time.
Thanks for the question.
Randy
Thank you for the advice I will let my brother know and also let you know the outcome on this issue. Thanks Randy
Great, Anita. Feel free to ask for more info if you find the problem.
Randy
Hi Randy, I just got word from my brother he tells me that he did not replace the circuit breaker and he had connected the power cord to a regular outlet and he says that he has power. His refrigerator,microwave and light switch to turn on the light in the trailer do not work what do you suggest we do?
Anita, the fridge thermostat and lights are 12 volts. Have your brother check to see if the power converter is receiving 110 volts from the 110 volt panel breaker.
I would check the hot side of every 110 volt breaker because of the high voltage and amps they were not meant to handle. This same surge may have burned out the transformer in the power converter also.
The batteries should be charging if the converter is working properly. I hope this info helps.
Randy
Hi Randy, It's me again can I ask what you mean by "check the hot side of every 110 volt and amps" How does he check them? Are you telling us that he will have to replace the converter? Thanks Randy we appreciate your response.
@Anita-Using a test light or multimeter, check the individual 110 volt AC breakers where the wires are attached. These wires lead to different circuits for the microwave, fridge, power converter, etc.
If these breakers test at 110-120 volts the problem will be in the particular appliance on the circuit. You may also test them at the outlets themselves.
If you get no voltage at the wire connecting points on the individual breakers, then the breaker itself is at fault. Replace the breaker(s) if this is the case.
I hope this helps.
Randy
Have a '96 Gulstream Conquest built on a Ford E Super Duty. The brake lights, turn signals, hazards, and back up lights are not working. Checked fuses...next step?
All other lights work fine.
Hi Randy, We just porchards a 2003 Gulf Stream, Innsbruck and are currently on it's maiden voyage while biking across Iowa. I tested the air at at home for almost two week on a120v outlet and about 2 or 3 hours on a new 4000 watt generator. I know it only has 2000 watts on each 120v leg but it worked fine. Anyway our first night after 68 miles of Missouri River valley hills we came back to a very hot camper. The air on high would run a few minutes and than the generator would just about jump out of the back of the pickup and die. We slept with it set on it's least frequent running setting which was worse than just opening the windows even though the temp was in the 80's at night. I sell generators so I had our support team go and get a 6500 watt generator which would run it but it has a large current draw for about 1 to 2 seconds about 15 into the non-compressor cycle on any setting above the halfway point on the temp comtrol. We also had an opportunity one night to plug into a 120v 20amp circuit and there was a big voltage drop, fans slowed down etc., it's almost like it's loading a capacitor or a temporary short. Any ideas?
Dennis
@Kerin-You might check the relays usually located underneath the hood as often there is a main relay which controls all of the signals and lights.
There is usually a small compartment with a removable cover which contains these breakers. But there could also be a problem with the ignition switch which controls some of the signal functions.
I hope this info helps you find the problem. Thanks for the question and for reading.
Randy Godwin
@Dennis-This sure sounds like the compressor is malfunctioning and drawing too many amps, Dennis. It could be the fan motor too, but the extreme voltage draw tends to point o the compressor as it requires the most power to operate.
Check the run/start amps on the compressor to find out for sure. I hope you find the problem but feel free to ask for more info if you think I may be of assistance.
Randy
thank you.. well i bought a 1993 fleetwood wilderness 5th wheel last year... cheap... it had problems or should i say still has well i had to replace roof down to and including some joists. put it back to gether no for inside stuff my ac unit did work couple time then the switch went bad so i got a new house thormastat put it in couldnt figure out the wiring so broke out the multi meter and while pluged into house i get 74.1 volts to it unplug i get 1.0 volts so went to the converter have 12 there before and after conveter at the furnace i cant really get to the wires in the back but somewhere i have a problem. please help. ty
You must have the wiring to the thermostat wrong, Justin. there is no way you should be getting 74 volts to the thermostat as 12-13 volts DC is all the power converter will supply to the thermostat.
A house type thermostat may not work on your particular A/C unit. I hope this helps. Ask for more info if needed.
Randy
i think i may have figured it out the board in the ac unit itself.. the relays r not working
Good for you, Justin. But the thermostat may be causing the relays to not activate. You'll eventually run down the problem I bet.
Randy
Hi Randy, to give you an update on my brother manny trailer. He had to purchase the 8900 series complete converter everything is back to normal except for the microwave. He must replace that it has no power. So thank for all your help.
Thanks for the update, Anita. Too bad your bro had to replace the converter but it could have been much worse. Glad you guys found the problem and the solution.
Thanks for the questions and for coming back to tell what the solution to your problem was. Perhaps others will learn from it.
Randy
Randy, Great artical! I'm having an electrical problem in our trailer. when we unplug from shore power we have no power at all. batteries are charged, changed some of the fuses, and still no power. i am going to my work to pick up a multi-meter to check the breakers. i'm really am hoping its not the converter. any thoughts?
Hi Tartis. If you find no power at the 12 volt AC breaker panel, check all of the connections to the batteries. Make sure the ground wires mounted to the steel frame or other metal connection, is clean and making contact.
The check with the multimeter should tell you where to start looking and if the power converter is at fault or not. Let me know what you find out and I'll try to help you solve your problem.
Thanks for visiting my RV repair articles.
Randy
Hey Randy, I just recently purchased a 99 Jayco Eagle, we took it out the next weekend and everything went great, took it out the next weekend, plugged into 30 amp and got nothin, only thing that has power are the outlets, no ac, no fridge, nothing else. Checked fuses, they are good, none of the breakers flipped, any idea where the problem might be? Thanks a bunch
Hey Matt! It sounds like you have a problem with your power converter as all of the mentioned items not working may be controlled by the 12 volt DC system.
Does the A/C have a thermostat mounted on the wall similar to one in a home? If so, this is another indication the converter is at fault or there is a short between the batteries and the 12 volt DC breaker box.
You might find this link to power converter problems helpful, or you may give me more info about your problem.
http://randygodwin.hubpages.com/hub/RV-Camper-Powe
Thanks for reading and for your question.
Randy Godwin
TY Randy...will do appreciate the response and your expertise. Have fun all U!
hi Randy,
Checked ALL fuses inside and under hood since some rvs transfer signals to trailers. Connected trailor lights....same results. GRRRR
Kerin-Sorry, I though you were referring to a motorhome instead of a travel trailer. Check the ground wire-usually white- on the trailer harness as it should be attached to the trailer frame at some point.
A loose or corroded wire ground will affect all of the signal lights on the trailer. If this isn't the problem let me know. You need a test light or multimeter to check the connections.
Randy
Randy, Thanks so much! i beleive it was the positive line from teh battery connected to the frame had crosion. so looks like were good to go! Thank you so much!!!! Your Gem in my Book!
Glad to hear it, Tartis! Thanks for telling what you found and stop in again sometime.
Randy
Hi Randy! Have a 2007 Rockwood that i just plugged into my truck and my display says :fault on Trailer Wiring" (ford f150 display. Checked the Battery and found only 10.8 Volts so i Hooked a charger across and booted to 13.9 Volts but didnt solve the problem I have no running lights or anything coming through 7 pin connector on trailer side. Checked supply (truck) with Multi and found all good. Inspected Connector for trailer and found ok. Checked Junction Box under trailer and wiring all good. Checked if converter working properly by putting multi across bttery when on 110 and battery was being cahrged,, Cant find any mice damage ( barewires etc) Unfortunately i have a connector that doesnt come apart and noticed the tabs are split ( female side) and noticed that the ground and black tabs were extruded more than the other 4 tabs. Before i pull my hair out, any suggestions? PS i replaced the battery but to no avail. Should i do resistance test?
Hello Dana, I would go to the junction box and check to see if the power is reaching this far. Connect the multimeter ground to the frame and the other lead to a powered wire-turn on lights or a signal to ensure an active circuit- and see if you get 12-13 volts through the powered wire.
If so, there is a bad ground more than likely. Usually this is the problem if the power is getting through to the trailer connections. Make sure the ground wire-usually white and attached to the steel frame-is clean and making good connection. Let me know if this isn't the problem.
Randy
Mmmm really getting the go around now. I installed a new battery and got 12 volts (batt supply) coming from my connector cable to the truck.. I checked out the tabs on the Truck again and got 12.6 across all tabs except the Hot + one which was 4.5 to 5.. I checked the F150 drawing and it shows that pin or tab comes from the batt charger circuit which isnt installed (fuses never put in ) no wonder my battery was dying on long trips to florida. So back to square one.. I still dont understand fully how the system is suppose to work,, Is it that th battery supplys the 12 volt power for power slide, fan etc and the truck supplys the running lights, brake lights etc? why do i have voltage at the connector plug coming from my battery across the 12volt system? i am reluctant to pull off all the factory sealed connectors.. Has it got something to do with the converter at all? ( all tests doe with ac unplugged) HELP!
PS I tried the gtound for the battery and it was excellent. I also tried ground on F150 connector which was good....
Yes Dana, the vehicle used to tow the travel trailer controls the running lights, turn signals, and brake lights. The trouble is in the connections from the trailer to the towing vehicle.
The 12 volt system on the RV powers the onboard lights, slide, etc. and not controlled by the RV's turn signals, lights, etc. and vice verso.
Sorry I was confused about your question, I have many questions to answer daily on this and many other RV articles and I sometimes loose track.
I still think the ground wire running from the trailer connecting harness to the steel frame may be at fault.
You may need a probe type test light to check the RV's wiring harness for a good ground to the frame.
Randy
Randy,
The F150 has a separate battery charger fuse and relay which were not installed from dealer. I put them in, turned on truck, got 13 v from tab and plugged in trailer.. walla,,, for some reason the new battery and the ford fix brought the runnibg brake etc back to life. I think what was happening before was that my battery was not being charged for up to 3 days between campgrounds but got rechaged by the inverter when camping.. The lights etc only work with key in the ignition and engine producing the volts. Thanks very much to your excellent web site and your quick response!!! Cheers from Canada,, now to get on the road tomorrow AM!1
Thanks for relating your experience here, Dana. This is a new one on me. I'm glad you informed me of the separate fuse and relay on your F-150 as it may be something I can suggest to future RVers with similar problems.
I sure didn't help you much and ended up with you giving me assistance instead. LOL!
Thanks again and stop in anytime. Enjoy yourself camping, you deserve it!
Randy
This a great column!! My breaker trips at the house when I plug in the trailer. I was able to narrow down where my problem was by reading your previous responses! I narrowed it down to the WH/CON = Water Heater/CONverter (I guessed thats what it means)breaker? I instantly checked the WH switch, which was on with no water in the tank. Funny part of this is that we just bought this travel trailer and I believe that the switch was left on by the dealer when they were showing us how to work everything? It has been two days before it started tripping the breaker. All DC items are working OK. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!!
Hey Steve. Are you saying, as long as the WH/CON breaker is off the house breaker doesn't trip? And is the house breaker rated at least 30 amps?
It is possible the water heater is tripping the breaker if the element has burned out. I would disconnect the power to the W/H and try it again to see if it is indeed the culprit.
If you have a multimeter you can check the heating element. If you need further info on how to do this, let me know.
I'd really like to know what you find out.
Randy
hey randy. still working on my 1993 fleetwood. im looking for a wiring diagram for it the company that built it is out of bussiness since 09.
hey randy yes and as of now i have the converter disconnected from the breaker the black@white wire they seam to be ground together through the transformer it looks like it runs ok just with the 12v hooked up need togo to work talk at you later thanks
@Justin-The wiring diagram should be the same as used in similar RVs, Justin. You may find one through the company making the AC unit itself. Check back later1
Randy
OK Lorrie. I'll be looking for you later.
Randy
Thanks Randy, it was the heating element!
I switched off the water heater at the water heater and it stopped tripping the breaker in the house. Took the trailer to the dealer, they confirmed the element was burned out (pretty badly)switched the element and all is back to normal!!
Great advice, Great column!! Thanks again.
Glad to hear it, Steve. The element was the main suspect since you related the dry-tank scenario in your initial post.
Thanks to you for the questions and comments plus your returning to relate the solution to the problem. I'm pleased you found my article helpful.
Randy
Randy I have a 3 way Dometic refer on my circuit board the j1 term. It has continuos 12 volts It goes to the 12 volt heater Is that the way it works thanks Herb
Hi Herb. Your fridge has 3 means of heating the ammonia solution inside your absorption system. It may operated on 12 volts supplied by the 110 volt power converter to the battery supply, the 12 volt battery supply alone, or by the propane system.
All of these options are controlled by the 12 volt thermostat. So there should be a 12 volt supply at all times no matter which heat supply is used. Check out this article for further explaination. Hope this helps you.
http://randygodwin.hubpages.com/hub/Airstream-Trav
Thanks for reading
Randy
Randy I understand that but with the refer off and all the power hooked 110 or 12v I still have 12v coming out of the J1 terminal . it is sending a 12v signal to the 12v hearter.I will check out the artical thanks
Okay Herb. Is the element getting hot, or are you referencing a "signal" as an electrical current? Do you have ALL of the power unhooked, including the batteries from their terminals? I'm still confused by this but assume you didn't include the battery disconnects..Sorry for my confusion, but you would have to have some power to get a "signal" as you put it.
Please help. I have a timberlodge travel trailer. Last timewe went camping had no problems. The past weekend we had problems. Lost power to a/c all interior lights. After about 10 seconds they would come on again for 1 minute to 5 minutes and eventually stay on like everythingwas fine. Battery is fully charged. If I disconnect the 30 amp nothing works even though the battery is fully charged and batteries wires are tight.
Hello Chris. I would advise using a multimeter to check the main and A/C breakers when the power is lost. Unless the A/C is controlled by a wall mount thermostat, this tends to rule out the power converter as the source for the problem.
You didn't say whether you were at home or at a campground when the problem arose. But the lights should still work if the 30 amp connection is unplugged.
Does the A/C have a wall mount thermostat or is it mounted in a ceiling assembly mount instead?
Randy
Hi Randy, I had contacted you a while back in reference to a power converter problem that my brother had. Well now he has another issue before he was able to push the button and the slide out would slide out when he would use the power outlet and now it will not slide out unless he uses battery power. He also has a bad batteryin his rockwood 5th wheel trailer.Could there a fuse somewhere in between that he may have to replace?
Hello again, Anita. When you say "power outlet" I am confused as to whether you are referring to the slide activation switch or to something else. Is there a dual switch with one power supply coming from the 12 volt breaker panel and the other directly from the battery?
Randy
Let me phrase this question in a different way. This last holiday we went camping and my brother had a problem with the slideout on his 5th wheel trailer. He could not get the slideout to move even though it was plugged into a 110 ac power box at the campsite and he also had power to his appliances in the trailer. Is it possible that the slideout only work on 12v and not the 110ac volt plug. My brother claims that it use to slide out on both 110 ac volt and 12 dc volt.
Right now his 12 dc volt battery has got no juice at all. What we did was charge the battery for at least 1/2 hour and then he pressed the button for the slideout and then it started to slide out. While the 110 ac volt is plugged into the power box shouldn't the battery be charging automaticaly? Also what can be draining the battery power? We would appreciate your advice.
Please help us solve this problem. Thank you
Thanks Anita for clarifying your problem. The slide out usually is powered by a 12 volt motor which is powered by a fully charged battery. I'm not saying it doesn't have both 12 volt and 110 volt motors but this normally not the case.
This sounds more like a power converter problem with the converter not keeping the battery fully charged if the battery needs charging with a conventional charger.
In order to check this out the power converter output must be checked at the batteries to insure proper voltage from the converter.
I hope this explains the problem and helps you find the solution. If not, feel free to ask for more info.
Randy
I was at the campground. When the camper is not plugged up my lights do not work. The a/c does have a wall mounted thermostat.
@Chris-This sounds like the battery or batteries are not being fully charged by the power converter. The battery should hold enough charge to allow instantaneous use of all 12 volt systems, including the A/C thermostat and interior lights, without having to wait until the converter recharges it back to performance level.
Some deep cycle batteries will develop a memory which gives a false reading of full charge but will discharge rapidly under heavy use. Apparently the power converter is fine if all of the systems eventually operate normally.
Be sure the ground wire(s) are all making good contact to the RV frame. Good luck and feel free to ask for further info.
Randy
I replaced the battery with another battery and the same thing is happening.
Hi Randy, could there be more breakers for the battery or slideout.
@Chris-This sounds more and more like a bad ground, Chris. You need to check the voltage at the battery to see if the charge is at least 13 volts from the converter when the RV is first plugged into the 110 volt power supply and everything is running.
At this point the converter should be putting out its strongest charge. Don't rule out a bad main breaker in the 12 volt breaker panel.
@Anita-I would think there would only be one breaker for the slideout, Anita. There should be a panel to access the electrical wiring connections leading to the slideout, though.
Sometimes these connections will become loose because of movement during operation of the slideout. Access may be gained to some of these connections through stripping around the slideout. Sorry I can't be more specific about your problem, Anita.
Randy, We would like to thank you for help.
Anytime, Anita! Thanks for the questions and for your time. :)
Randy
Checked the voltage at battery with the battery un hooked and the converter is putting out 12 volts.
Chris, hook the battery back up and check the 12 volt main breaker with the RV unplugged from the 110 volt AC supply.
Your converter should be putting out more voltage when everything is first turned on after connecting to a power source to prevent the 12 volt DC breakers from tripping or to prevent sudden blackouts similar to those you described.
This isn't a sure thing but you may find out something after testing voltage at the breakers or the battery after first connecting the power.
Randy, I borrowed my uncles pop up camper over Labor Day weekend. He told me prior to borrowing it that he thought the battery was bad, which was not a problem, since the campground I went to had electric hook up. After taking the camper down prior to leaving camp, I hooked the up the trailer connection to my Durango & left it hooked up a while before leaving. When I went to start my Durango, it almost did not start. I drove about 10 miles into town & stopped at a restaurant. When I went to start the Durango, my battery was dead. We jump started the Durango and drove another 15 miles or so & stopped at a gas station. I left the Durango running since I felt I needed a new battery myslelf. For some reason, and glad I did, I checked the battery on the camper while at the gas station & the negative terminal was so hot you could not touch the wing nut with your bare hands. I did manage to unhook the terminals on the camper battery & drove the rest of the way home. My battery in my Durango recharged from the drive and has been working fine ever since. The camper lighting & all works fine when plugged into 110 and I checked to see if the converter was putting out a charge to the battery and it is. I have not hooked the battery back up to the camper. I did put the battery on a battery charger and then took it over town to the auto store and had it tested. They confirmed the battery was bad. I would like to buy him a new battery for the camper for letting me use it, but I'm afraid it may ruin it when hooking the trailer connection back up to tow the camper. Do you have any idea what would have caused the draw on my Durango battery & make the negative terminal on the camper battery to get so hot when hooked up for towing?
Hello Mike, I suspect the bad battery was causing the terminal to get so hot because it would not hold a charge. The Durango alternator was constantly charging the battery because it never reached the level to stop requiring it.
This could be because the fluid in the battery was low or the cells were not making proper contact with each other making the terminal on the end cell try to hold all of the charge being putout by the generator.
I would suggest replacing the battery and allowing the converter to charge it up to full capacity before testing the reaction to the Durango only.
It should be okay now but there's no guarantee there isn't something else causing a bad ground or short. Let me know what you find out if you don't mind.
Thanks for the question!
Randy
Randy, Thanks. I'll get a new battery & let you know how it works. I didnt think the two batteries were supposed to be tied together in any way.
Let me know what you find out, Mike! I'm curious to know if a new battery solves your problem. Thanks for your reply.
Randy
My hd tv shuts off when I start the micro wave. It does not blow any breakers. When I'm done with the micro wave I can just turn the tv back on?
@Rick-You obviously have both of them on the same breaker which isn't strong enough to supply both with enough power to operate at the same time.
Either plug one of them into a different circuit or change the breaker to a higher amperage to prevent this from occurring again.
Thanks for the question!
Randy
Hi Randy, I just purchaced a 1992 sprinter camper trailer. The outlet the fridge plugs into doesnt work, so there is a three way plug i can plug the fridge and the main power cord in at the same time. But when I plug the fridge in the whole camper shell is charged with 110! I am stumped any advice?
Hi Calorimer! My first suggestion is to check the connections where the power cord is wired to the fridge itself. Sometimes the hot wire may be contacting the metal on the fridge causing a short to charge the entire RV frame.
Otherwise, a multimeter is essential to finding the problem quickly. I would also check the receptacles, both the non-functioning one and the one used for the main electrical supply. I hope this helps.
Randy
I plug my trailer into my house power and everything work on my trailer. Then I check it then next day and the trailer isnt running on the house power but off the battery. I unhook the battery while it's connected to the house power and there's no power to the trailer. I check the the extenoo
Finishing up from last commect. I check the extension cord and the is power to. I'll unhook everything for a day and try again and it works for about a day again
hello Tim, this sounds like a converter problem as all of the lights, fans, fridge, and furnace run off of the battery or batteries. The converter may not be putting out enough amperage to keep the battery fully charged with several different items pulling amps.
Check the voltage and/or the amperage when the converter is on at the batteries. i hope this helps you find the problem.
Randy
Randy, was wondering if you could help me an issue I'm having. I went to winterize my trailer the other day and was going to do it running the water pump off battery power. When I got out to the trailer with my charged battery, I connected it and found out I had no power to the trailer what so ever. Checked the battery again and while it wasn't fully charged I thought it should have been enough power to run the lights at least. But there is absolutely no power to the trailer at all. Wondering where you think I should start checking. Battery itself is about 4 years old. Check fuses first?
Hello Aaron, I would start by checking the power at the battery terminals first. Then if this checks out okay then go to the 12 volt DC breaker/fuse panel to make sure you are getting at least 12 volts to the main breaker/fuse.
If so, then check the breaker/fuse supplying power to the water pump and then at the pump itself. Don't forget that ground wires at the battery, breaker/fuse panel, and the water pump may be connected to the frame and sometimes become corroded causing the circuit to be broken.
The battery ground wire usually bolted to the frame is especially susceptible to corrosion in these cases. let me know what you find and if you need more info.
Thanks for the question and for your time.
Randy
Thanks for the info Randy. It turned out to just be the 30 amp fuse on the positive battery cable was blown. So simple! Thanks again!
Glad you found the problem, Aaron! Thanks for reporting the solution here. Stop by any time!
Randy
Hi Randy, I've been reading your forum here and find it a very helpful check list for the problems I have been having but haven't come up with a solution yet. My boyfriend owns 2005 Keystone trailer and we've been having issues with the electrical system. Dimming/blinking lights that shut off then pop back on after a while, etc. This morning the alarm came on in the trailer and would not shut off until I turned all the breakers off in it. I have noticed this problem is most prevalent as the temperature drops and less common as it rises during the day. We've checked the converter and it seems to be working. Could this be an issue in the wiring or is it something we haven't considered yet? Thanks for any insight you can offer!
Hi back atcha, Brandy! I would suggest checking the batteries if they are the type which may be topped up with water or acid. If too many electrical amps are pulled and the fluid level is low in the batteries it may cause the system to temporarily shut down.
You might check the amps and volts at the battery when this happens again to see what is going on with your system. Trial and error is the only thing you can do at this point.
Feel free to tell me what you find if this isn't the problem. Thanks for your question and for reading my article.
Randy
The alarm is going off on my 300 watt Magnadyne DC to AC power convertor? What would cause this? I checked the fuse and it is fine. The battery on the RV is also dead and the fuse on the speedomter keeps blowing are they related?
Hello Mike! I wouldn't think the speedometer would be related unless it too is a 12 volt DC powered instrument. You must check the output from the converter before making any guesses at the problem you are experiencing.
Are all of the 12 volt DC powered items, such as vent fans, lights, etc. working okay?
The vent fan in the bathroom is not working but the one upfront is. All the light and plug-ins work as well as the heater
I jumped the battery and the alarm went off on the power convertor. The fan in the bathroom still did not work even when the RV was running
That is puzzling, Mike. If the RV battery is dead then this shows it isn't receiving enough voltage to charge it or the battery itself is bad. I would suggest removing the positive cable from the battery and checking the voltage between it and the ground to see if there is proper voltage coming from the converter.
It should read 12-13 volts if the converter is to keep the battery fully charged. If it does show enough voltage the battery is probably at fault. If the Battery is low on fluid it will not hold a charge.
Since your other 12 volt lights, fans, etc. are working, the converter is probably fine. Be sure to check the ground at the battery for a good connection to the frame. A bad ground connection can cause all sorts of screwy electrical problems. Good luck and feel free to give me more info if you think I can help you further.
Randy
I have an electrical bleed in my travel trailer. Battery is good an hold charge. When hooked up to trailer with everything turned off inside, we put a voltage meter on the line running into trailer and it is drawing power. Where do I start to run down this problem. Battery is down to i/2 power over night.
Hello, Man of the West! I would have someone read the meter with all of the breakers turned off except the main. Turn the breakers on one at at time until you find the breaker the electrical drain is on.
Be aware that some appliances, such as microwaves and especially TV's, have small voltage drains even when switched off. Feel free to ask for more info if you still don't find the problem. Good luck and thanks for the question.
Randy SSSSS
I have a 1984 minnie winnie 22 foot motor home. All was well with the electrical systen untill the other day. The 2 house battries will not hold a charge over night. I replaced both and charged them and they lose all charge overnight. When i fire up the motor and switch the battery switch from the engine batt to the house batteries it starts charging the house batteries but the next morning there dead. The engine battery is fine. No blown fuses all appliances work. Any ideas?
Thanks for the question, Rick! This sounds like a power converter problem. Check at the batteries to see if the converter is sending a charge to them.
Using a multimeter to check, there should be at least 12-13 volts DC flowing into the batteries from the converter when some lights, fans, etc. or other 12 volt appliance is operating. If not, the resistor in your converter may be at fault. Feel free to ask for more info if this is not the case.
Randy Godwin
I am new to this stuff so is the converter the box with the fuses and breakers in it. Also there is a solinoid looking device at the back of the battery box where all the battery cables from the battery , alt and i assume gen hook up. Thanks,
When doing this should the gen be running or the rv pludgged into the house plug etc. Like i said i really know very little about this stuff. Thanks
@dunpsterrider--There are 2 breaker panels in most RVs. One handles all 110-120 volt AC appliances such as rooftop air conditioners, all wall outlets,a furnace fans, etc.
The other breaker panel may be attached to the converter box which changes the 110-120 volt current, coming from the plugged in pigtail, into 12 volt DC current to charge the on board batteries which run the lights, vent fans and thermostat on the fridge.
There should be a breaker in the 110-120 volt AC panel which is marked converter and provides electricity to the converter.
While checking the batteries for converter current, the RV should be plugged into the house or other 110 volt supply. Is this clear so far?
Randy
Yes clear so far. I will find the second panel. thanks
I can only find 1 set of breakers on the rv and they are connected to the box with 5 old school glass fuses. I ordered the book shown above and a multimeter. I compleetly charged the batteries (2 new) and the rv has held the charge for 5 days so far.
The old glass fuses are those which furnish electricity to the 12 volt appliances from the converter. Perhaps the new batteries was the problem all along. But let me know if this isn't the case. Thanks again for your questions!
Randy
I have a 2010 5th wheel with 3 slides. When I returned home from camping the front jacks and slides will not work. All fuses and breakers are good. Everything else seems to be working fine.Could it be my converter?
Yes Adam. it could be the converter, but check to see if the other 12 volt items are working before settling on this solution. You should be able to get 12-13 volts at the battery when the converter is working correctly. I assume you have checked the 12 volt DC panel as well as the 110 volt AC breaker panel already.
One way to check this is to connect an ordinary 12 volt battery charger to the battery(s) and trying to work the slide-outs and jacks. If they work then the converter and or battery is at fault. If this doesn't work then feel free to ask for more info.
Thanks for the question and for reading this article!
Randy
Jayco camper all plug-ins work. no lights fans refridgerator. power to all breakers. crossed breakers to see if that was the problem and no it wasn't.what do i need to check?
Hello Perry! You either have a malfunctioning power converter or a bad battery(s). All of your aforementioned items not working operate on the 12 volt DC power panel. I don't know if you checked this panel or not, but even if you are getting voltage from it the amperage my not be enough to power the different electrical fixtures.
Check the battery(s) when the converter is operating to see how many volts are going to them. If they are the type with refillable fluid cells, then make sure they are topped up with water, or otherwise they will not hold a charge.
Feel free to ask for more info if my suggestions don't help. My suspicion is a faulty power converter, but check everything else before purchasing a new one or having the present converter repaired. Here is a link to my article on checking your converter:
http://randygodwin.hubpages.com/hub/RV-Camper-Powe
Thanks for the question!
Randy
I have a 2007 Carriage Cameo, having problem with refrig. is saying low voltage, some of the only 1 outlet in 5th wheel part works, and 1 outlet in living area works microwave works air/furnace, all lights working except along superslide {same side as refrig. is on} waterheater and refrig. work on lp. All fuses seem to be fine. Breakers seem to be fine. I am plugged into 50 amp site. Any suggestions on what problem could be.
Hello Lori! Depending on your type refrigerator-2-way or 3-way--its thermostat uses the 12 volt DC system to operate the thermostat no matter if it is using LP, 12 volts DC, or 110 volt AC power to heat the ammonia solution which cools the unit.
The 12 volt system also operates the superslide and the thermostat on the water heater. Have you checked all of the fuses/breakers in the 12 volt DC panel which is separate from the 110 volt panel? It may be some of the fuses/breakers in this panel may not be working.
Feel free to ask for more info and you may wish to check out the article i linked in the post above yours. Ask for more info if you need it, and thanks for stopping by!
Randy
Randy, Thanks for resoponding so fast. All the fuses and breakers have been checked. Still wondering why the plug-ins would not be working? The battery is original and probably no good , do you think this could be some of the problem? While travelling to where we are at we stopped and everything was fine. For the last couple of years we have had problems with refrig. blowing fuses and the lights and plug-ins on superslide side have not been working {refrig. is on same side as superslide} have had it at RV dealer they could not find anything. Hope you can make sense of what I am saying.
This is a puzzler, Lori! Since the slide-out and the lights are on 12 volt and the outlets are 110 volt, these two systems are completely separate and should not affect each other.
If your fridge is a 3-way the 110 volt element may be tripping the breaker which could affect the outlets on the same circuit. There is a possibility the wiring may be loose at the connections leading into the slide-out if it has any 110 volt outlets in it.
It's really very hard to advise you without having a wiring diagram to go by to see the circuits involved. At this point it's mainly a matter of using a multi-meter to find where the power is being prevented from getting from the breaker to the outlets. Trial and error is going to be the only way to find the culprit.
Sorry I cannot be of more help to you, but feel free to ask more questions as you keep searching for the problem. A bad battery doesn't seem to be causing the problem if the lights and other 12 volt items are working okay. But I would check the voltage at the battery to see if the power converter is putting out at least 13 volts.
Randy
Hello there.. we are having ac problems. it throws the breaker when we try to start it and it "buzzez" like it doesn't want to start.. I notices that one of the fuses is a 20 amp and it is suposed to be 25. could this be the problem?
Hi, Shielarae! Although using a too small fuse may cause problems it probably isn't what is wrong with your AC. The starting capacitor may be at fault or you may other problems. Check out this other article I wrote especially for RV AC repair and troubleshooting. There are many questions and answers for you to choose from to find your problem.
http://randygodwin.hubpages.com/hub/RV-Roof-Air-Co
Randy
Hi Randy, we just bought our first TT. We decided it was time to leave the tent to the kids. Having no experience with these before the last week or so has been interesting trying to figure out how stuff works, and when (12V, 120, or on propane). The TT is a 1993 Scotty. There are a few issues that I can't seem to resolve.
1. The exterior outlet, light, and the outlet for the refrigerator (2 way fridge) don't seem to be working, the fridge will work if I plug it in to an extension cord to the house or run it on propane. I assume these will be in the same circuit since they are in the same side. Can you point me to a schematic or give me some tips on troubleshooting? I guess Scotty stopped operating in 1997 so no luck with contacting them.
Hello Emmett! I think you are correct as it seems the outlets are all on one circuit. Obviously, the breaker supplying voltage to this circuit is either tripped of is bad.
You should be able to use a digital multimeter to check each individual circuit for power. I would suggest switching off all of the breakers and testing them one by one until the bad circuit is found.
If you find one breaker with no power even when turned on, then this one would need replacing. Breakers do malfunction on occasion.
Let me know if you find the problem or if you need more info and I'll be glad to help. Thanks for your and question.
Randy
Hello I'm new here.Last camping season I had an odd drain on my batteries, so I bought new batteris thinking that was the problem.So, the last campout last fall everything was fine till about 9 pm and suddenly lights went out again and only 3 hrs on fully charged batteries.When I bought the trailer originally I had the AC removed by the RV dealership and a fantastic fan installed, so other than lights and fan on I still ran out of juice with my 2 6 volt batteries.So again, thinking it must be a battery problem I changed out for new batteries two weeks ago for the start of the new season. Guess what? went to check test levels this morning and completely dead.
Should i hold off on new batteries LOL? I 've spent over $1400. in batteries the past 8 months!
Hello campermaninbc. It sounds as if your power converter is at fault. A bad converter exhibits all of the symptoms you mentioned. Check the battery voltage when everything is running to see if the converter is putting out at least 13 volts. If not, the converter is the main suspect.
The batteries are not the problem, so don't expend anymore money buying new ones. Fell free to ask for more info if needed.
Randy
Thankyou Randy, I read through other posts and got the feeling you'd tell me to check the converter.Once I have the batteries recharged (I put them on yesterday,and they are fully charged 6.25 readings on both 6 volt batteries) is there a way I can read the converter, and do I need to pull the panel off to gain access? Also, obviously 12 volt lights and fans work off of 12 volt power, does the forced air fan on heater also use 12 volt or is it converted 110 AC from 12 DC?
Also, I noticed a red and blue hose at the bottom corner of trailer.Can I open those to drain out anti-freeze or what is the purpose in them please?
And lastly today, I bought a rear veiw camera system with a signal inhancer and I thought it might be useful to put on rear of trailer to have a better view of obstacles while backing up AND to maybe stop yelling and getting mad at wife (everyone knows what I mean about that, they seem to not know what left and right means???)My question is Do I need to run a separate wire from my reverse wire from my pick-up, or is there a lead I can use from that seven point adaptor from the trailer to the truck.I've never seen back up lamps on a trailer, which is what I require as I don't want to use a constant source of voltage as it will eventually fry the camera.It also comes with an infared night vision feature that I don't want to fry out. I'd be grateful if you helped me with the voltage and red and blue hose problem, the camera thingy isn't a huge priority.lol, gene
Hello again, campermaninbc! You can check the converter voltage by using a multimeter directly on the batteries while running several 12 volt DC appliances. If the converter is operating properly, the voltage on the batteries should stay steady with no loss as the converter should keep them fully charged while furnishing power to the particular 12 volt items.
I would think the furnace fan to be 12 volt but not sure. It should say on the wiring diagram on the furnace somewhere.
Ha! I know exactly what you mean about a spouse not knowing the difference in left and right and have often intervened to help other men back their RV's into tight spots and thus, save the life of many wives in the process.
I can't advise you on the proper wiring technique for your new camera as I've never installed one before. Sorry, but it sounds like a great option. The red and blue hoses are a mystery to me as I've not encountered them before, but they may relate to the onboard holding tanks or fresh water supply. Sorry I cannot be of more service.
Randy
Thanks, I'll check that and keep you posted!
gene
Thanks loads, Gene! I'm sure others would like to know what you found to be the problem. I know I would! Thanks again for the questions.
Randy
Setup my 96 Dutchman camper this weekend and plugged it into the electric, after about 2 hours of being plugged in, inside the breaker panel there is a very, very loud buzzing noise. The the lights go dim but it seems the electric still works. I put a new deep cycle battery in and changed the gfi receptacle and it still makes the loud noise, tne panel box holds the 110v and the 12v dc breakers and fuses, at my witts end please help.
Hi John! More than likely the power converter is at fault. Your RV seems to have a combination converter/breaker panel which also seems to indicate a problem with the converter. If the converter is at fault you should be able to check the voltage at the batteries while the lights, vent fans, etc, are running to see if the voltage in the battery is dropping.
If you are getting 13 volts while these items are operating then the converter is working properly. You may wish to check out this article about RV power converters for more info. Thanks for the question!
http://randygodwin.hubpages.com/hub/RV-Camper-Powe
Randy
Hi Randy, guess what, everything seems to be running correctly. However there's a little story here. I rehooked the charged 6 volt batteries, hooked the 110 ac to the trailer, turned a bunch of lights and fans on, put the meter on the batteries and meter read 12.60-59-58-47 ect draining slowly, so called my niegbour Fred over, (Fred has a simular setup on his) and told him my problem, so Fred hauls out my schematics, looks them over, walks over to the batteries, scatches his head and says"gene, come here. Look at the batteries, What's wrong with this picture? So,scanning the batteries over And sweating some what, he's says, Take your cap off, so i do, and he slaps me up side the face and says, It's not good enough to put the positive lead on one battery, negative lead on the other, without hooking the two together!!!
Now since we will never meet,because I'm in Canada somewhere,....in BC in fact, I'd thought I owed you an explaination without fibbing.LOL.
Next time I ask a technical question, ask me if if I had my head examined first!
gene :(
HA! Gene! Although it's funny, I'm glad you fixed your problem so easily with no more expense. And believe me, if you work with this type stuff very often you'll always make mistakes. I've slapped my own self up side the head many times saying "Randy, you are so stupid"! LOL!
I had a guy awhile back ask a question on one of my other RV A/C repair articles in which his A/C was blowing air though the intake instead of the vents. I puzzled over that one, figuring his fan was somehow running backwards. He had neglected to tell me had removed the unit from the RV to replace the roof seal. Finally he wrote back and told me had done so and had turned the unit around backwards when replacing it. He felt so embarrassed about it, but like you he was man enough to admit it! LOL!
Thanks again for telling me what you found out, Gene. I learn a lot from everyone who visits here and try to pass the info along to other RV owners who may have similar problems. Stop in any time and please check out my other RV repair articles if you have any problems. Enjoy the coming camping season!
Randy
I have a Coleman 2003 Caravan 27' travel trailer. A couple of months ago, some of the lights stopped working. They included the light and fan in the stove hood, the light over the sink, the radio/CD player, and the light over the pull-out bed unit in the front.
I have checked all fuses and breakers and they are ok. No damage can be seen in the electrical housing of the fan hood. The GFCI's have been checked and there is power in the outlets and the bathroom.
Another issue occured as I was checking the outside light by the door. The light shorted out as I was checking a defective ring behind the lightbulb. And now, that light and also the main center trailer lights inside do not work. But the fuses and breakers are still ok and the outlets and bathroom lights and fan still work.
We have it hooked up to 110 power with an extension cord at our home. Any suggestions.
Thanks for the question, Allen. In most RV's the lights, fans, and some other appliances use 12 volt power to operate on. I'm not sure what kind of power converter you have in your RV, but you need to check the voltage it is putting out to the batteries and thus, to the 12 volt breaker panel.
If the 12 volt DC breakers are marked so you can tell which lights are on the circuits you are having problems with, then you can check them with a voltage tester to eliminate a bad breaker from the problem. Your batteries should be getting at least 13 volts DC if the converter is working correctly.
The 110 volt AC wall outlets and all others will not be affected by having a bad converter, so this also points to the converter or 12 volt DC breaker panel as being the culprit. Do ask for more info if needed and please let me know if you find the problem. It may help others with a similar problem. Thanks for reading!
Randy
Vanne Way 2 years ago
Excellent article! I can certainly see you researched! As someone with first hand knowledge of the Serro Scotty it is evident that you understand what you are dealing with. The simple built Scotty was the brainchild of John Serro. His Pennsylvania Amish roots kept the design practical and well built. That is why there are so many still around today. My step father was the manager of one of the 3 plants that manufactured the trailers. The plant was my playground and I still rememeber the care and effort his crew put into the making of each individual camper.