RV and Camper Travel Trailer : How to Repair or Replace the Floor
85
Getting Started on the Repairs
Discovering a soft spot in the floor of your RV or camper trailer is something you simply cannot ignore. The soft spot usually means you have a leaking roof or perhaps plumbing problems, either presently, or at sometime in the past. But this is not always the case.
As can be seen in this article, this problem may have started years before. But whatever caused the problem in the first place is secondary to repairing the damage to the floor. But can a DIY owner handle the repair job? Of course you can, because this article shows how to repair the damage to your RV’s floor from start to finish.
Any problems you may encounter can be addressed in the comments at the bottom of the page. Please feel free to look through those already asked and answered if you please.
Dutchman Travel Trailer
Inspecting Before Repair
Assessing the damage to the floor
The particular
model in the accompanying photos is a Dutchman camper trailer. It had
at least two previous owners and has been in the hands of the present
owners for two years. Shortly after they purchased this camper trailer
soft spots were noticed in the kitchen area floor. These spots have
gotten worse and have spread almost into the carpeted sitting area. The
table base was screwed to the floor which was so soft the table was
barely supported.
At some time in the past a plumbing leak had
occurred. It is suspected a waterline supplying the sink or water
heater had ruptured and soaked the floor. This was probably due to
freezing temperatures while the camper trailer was left with the water
hooked up. Whatever the reason, it thoroughly soaked the particleboard
used as a base for the floor covering. A look inside of the base
cabinet revealed the original vinyl floor covering which had been
replaced by vinyl stick-on tile.
This apparent quick fix might
have been satisfactory on some models but not in this case. Particle
board is notorious for falling apart if exposed to water for very long.
In fact, it can swell just from the moisture in the air over a long
period of time. The reason for this floor being so soft was not
discovered until we began removing the floor itself.
Removing the Bad Flooring
Subfloor Inspection
Floor removal and preparation
Before the floor could be removed, the table and booth had to be dismantled and stored elsewhere. The position of each bench was carefully marked and measured to ensure proper position when replaced. The bench with the back to the bar top contained RV electrical wires for the running light wires which were cut and would be spliced after the repair job was completed.
The tiles pulled up easily as the glue had deteriorated on the damp particleboard. After removing a section of particleboard with the reciprocating saw, it was easy to see what had occurred . The only support in the floor consisted of a few 1 ½ inch square wood beams and the same thickness of Styrofoam in between them.
Beneath this was only thin metal over a few sparsely spaced steel support bracing. There was a steel beam under the booth/table area which had not been used for a wood beam floor joist. Very poor management of floor support in this design.
A reciprocating saw (sold on this page) was used to cut the particleboard away from the walls and cabinets. Care is needed to keep from cutting through the outer sheet metal on the bottom of the camper trailer. A floor heating vent ran the length of the unit and was flattened by the weight of those walking on the soft floor. It was almost impossible to keep from cutting this aluminum vent during the floor removal but this is easy to repair.
Cutting a straight line into the area separating the sound wood from the bad will make matching the new wood edge easier. The removal of the Styrofoam was the worst part of the job as it was glued to the metal covering and to the particleboard. A small scraper was used to remove the remnants and the whole area was vacuumed clean.
The stick-on tile had sealed the moisture into the floor and had slowly deteriorated the particleboard. There was no place for the moisture to go. This moisture had been trapped inside for years and finally the damage became noticeable.
In With the New Floor
Installing the Tile and Other Finishing Touches
Finishing the Job
Rebuilding the floor
After the cleanup the rebuilding process begins. Extra wood floor joists were added over the steel beams beneath the floor. Joists were also added beneath the cabinets and along the line of the remaining floor at the sitting area. It is important to support every edge of the new plywood for greater strength and stability.
Extra joists were screwed along the walls into the old, but still solid, wood beams. Cross beams were also added to further strengthen the floor support. The old heating vent was straightened and reinforced with sheet aluminum and self tapping sheet metal screws.
Aluminum adhesive duct repair tape was used to seal all repairs and to repair the cuts made during floor removal. An extra wood joist was added along the side of the vent to prevent the damage happening again.
Roofing felt was used to cover the aluminum heating vent because the treated plywood used for the floor replacement will corrode aluminum over a period of time. The Styrofoam insulation was replaced by ordinary thick fiberglass insulation. Any rusted spots on the floor was treated with a good quality paint to prevent further corrosion.
Coated deck screws were utilized to attach the ¾ inch plywood to the beams and to match up with the remaining ¾ inch particleboard. The screws were countersunk and filled with putty so as not to show beneath the new floor covering. It may be necessary to sand or otherwise flatten out uneven areas as these floors are hard to get completely smooth.
Recovering the floor
Because of the many different angles and protrusions stick-on tile was the easiest and most mistake free covering to go back with. Unless you have a very square and angle free area it is hard to cut solid vinyl flooring without making a mistake. If you desire this type of flooring it would be best to hire a professional to do the job for you.
Ceramic tile is not recommended because of the flexing of the unit while in transport and because of the excess weight involved. Other coverings, including carpet and wood, may be used if desired. If vinyl tile is used, be sure to check how the edges will work out to avoid having to cut tiny slivers of tile along the walls. The molding will only cover about ½ inch when put down.
A carpet bar or wooden threshold may be used to cover the joint between the new wood and the old. Often this joint is uneven because of the swelling of the old floor but the aforementioned products will hide the difference. It only remains to replace the booth and table and cover the cracks around the floor and walls with quarter round molding to dress up the new floor.
The floor in your particular model may be constructed differently but the method of replacement is basically the same. Use as much support as you can to support your new floor and you can enjoy the fruit of your labors for many years to come.
Check out the comments below for more answers to floor replacement questions.
Flooring Info and Tools
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CommentsLoading...
Hello Mike, you will have to cut out the old carpet and use it for a pattern for the new carpet. Use quarter round or shoe molding along the bottom of the cabinets and walls to cover the edge of the new carpet. If the carpet meets other carpet or floor covering use a carpet bar or wood strip as in the pictures in this hub.
I'm probably just going to pay someone to do it because I'm not very good at it. I don't think I could pull the old carpet out and I don't want to leave a cut portion under the cabinet. Thanks for reply.
My home floor is breaking and needs repair. I will follow your advice. Actually, My home was built by my grandpa and that's why it is very old. I am in a fix what to use tiles or marble or something else?
You did a really nice job on your repair. I have actually seen people buy campers that needed fixed up and redo them and make money on the deal in the long run. You have to do all the work yourself and be thrifty with the materials, but it can be done.
Thanks CD. It is possible and quite lucrative to "flip" older camper trailers. Repairs are not too difficult and the new materials are usually better than what was originally used. The older models seem to be built better too.
Nice article Randy.
Thanks plan!
Hi
Loved what you posted here. I never had the nerve to replace the floor myself. Always used a professional. Maybe now I'll have the guts.Thanks
Thanks flooring and tiles! Reflooring an RV of any kind is not that difficult. Mistakes are usually easily remedied as wood materials can easily be replaced. Go for it!
i have a toy haul tohoe by thor 2004 im replacing the floor and i need to take the sink out so i can do under it how was the sink and the base put in so i can get it out
Hello George. In most cases the sink cabinet is not removed when replacing the floor unless it is extremely decayed. Most of the time the cabinet(s)are built in such a way that removing them is very time consuming and, in some cases, hard to do without damaging them.
It is easier to refloor up to the cabinets and replace the floor inside of them separately. Without seeing your particular model, it would be difficult to give you an opinion on which method you should use. I hope this helps you out.
yes it helps me out thank i have the same sink and cabinets as the above pic refridge, stove exactly the same kitchen same color. i was think on taking out the floor from the back all the way up under the shower its a 5 wheel its a 30 foot toy hauler by thor thank u u may of changed my mine i have the floor out from the back all the way up to the kitchen
Glad to help, George. You may be able to remove the inside cabinet floor separately, but unless the floor is bad it's easier to replace up to the cabinet base. There is very little weight exerted on the floor under the cabinets. Good luck!
do u think it would be good to go under the base cabinets a couple of inches
This would be good if you can manage it, George. It will give the cabinets a little support.
I HAVE AN '08 DUTCHMEN DENALI 31SB FIFTH WHEEL, AND I HAVE HAVE SOME SQUEEKING AND VERY MINUTE FLEXING IN THE FLOOR ABOUT MID COACH. ANY IDEAS ON CAUSES /AND OR REMEDIES FOR THE SQUEEK, FLEX?
Hello, Jerry! As you can tell from the pics in my article, the Dutchman units do not have enough floor joists in the floor. These joists are not numerous enough to fully support the combination particleboard and Styrofoam sub-floor.
The squeaking could possibly be caused by a joining point of the particleboard sections rubbing together. Adding a few screws could help but this also depends on the floor covering you would have to go through to add them.
Sorry if this doesn't help, but without actually seeing what the cause of the weakness and squeaking floor is, it is impossible to tell.
Thanks for reading my article and contact me again if you think I can help.
Randy
Love reading these articles.. I have recently bought a 2006 r-vision travel sport. I bought it knowing there was some floor damage. After receiving the unit i noticed the water damage had came from a leaky drain systen from the kitchen sink. The sink cabinet was busted up also. i have decided to go ahead and replace the floor from the front bedroom all the way back to the bunk beds. I cant tell of any damage under the cabinet but the one cabinet needs replacing. there are quiet a bit of soft spots going from kitchen to the back which is the bathroom. I would say about one half the unit. My plan is replacing everything with laminant flooring but i am scared that this will make the floor to high for the slide out to slide over, besides figuring out how to get the floor under the slide out. I noticed that the flooring seems like it goes all the way under the walls. I guess my question is should i use this type flooring, and should i plan on removing all the floor cabinets. Any advice?
Hello Kevin! Yes, in most cases the floor is put down first, so the walls are atop whatever flooring was installed originally. As far as using laminant flooring is concerned, as long as it isn't thicker than the original flooring, it should be fine.
Removing the floor cabinets will be quite a job, but it depends on how much trouble you want to take with your repairs. Unless the cabinets are unsteady because of the damaged floor, I would install the new floor up to, or slightly under the base of the cabinets.
Good luck with your repair and feel free to ask about any encountered problems. Thanks for reading my articles!
well very helpful
Thanks Basim!
I have a 1981 class c motorhome with water damage to the floor. It has extended under the exterior walls,and the walls on each side appear to have settled bowing the center.How can I lift the sides to replace the sub floor that is underneath?
Unless the walls are in danger of coming loose from the floor, I would not try to lift the walls in order to replace the floor. Install a floor joist next to the walls in order to attach the new subfloor to the chassis. If the floor beneath the walls are rotten, it should be no problem to remove the deteriorated wood enough to slide new wood beneath the walls by levering them up slightly.
It all depends on how the walls are attached to the floor and how much space remains when the old floor is removed.
I hope this info helps you with your repairs. Feel free to ask if you need more info on this project. Thanks for viewing my article.
Thank you for this info. We are in the same situation. We are 3rd owner for 2 years and discovered a soft spot. Estimate is over $3,000 to fix it. Insurance would not cover it. We are going to do it ourselves!!!
Go for it, Norma. You cannot go wrong by doing it yourself. Any mistakes can be rectified and you will save a bundle of money doing it yourself. I guarantee your job will be of better quality than the original.
Thanks for reading and feel free to ask about any encountered problems.
Randy :)
We have a 1998 Damon Motorhome with damage over bunk any ideas and were to get parts front bunk
Not being familiar with your particular mode; it is difficult to advise you, Linda. I can tell you that many different makes of motorhomes use the same parts. If the bunks are made of wood they shouldn't be too hard to duplicate or repair. Sorry I can't help you any moere than this.
Thanks for reading!
Randy
I have water damage right inside the door. Water somehow got in around the door. How can I fix a small area and match the lenolium.
Hello Wendell. Determine a square or rectangular area which covers the entire damaged area. You want to ensure the remaining floor is sound on all sides of the proposed area to be removed. It is important to use a framing square to determine the proposed section to be removed so the new piece will fit well.
Start by drilling a large hole in the damaged area to determine the thickness of the floor. This will tell you how deep your saw blade needs to go.
Use a reciprocating saw (sawzall) or jig saw to cut out the premeasured damaged floor. Be careful that your saw blade doesn't go much past the flooring material itself to avoid damaging the bottom of your camping unit.
Use whatever size wood is necessary to support the edges of the remaining floor and the new floor section. By centering a one and a half inch support board around the area you allow one half of the board to support the new section.
Countersink holes around the perimeter and use deck screws to tie everything down. If you cannot match the linoleum, use a brick or stone textured piece to look like an entry section. An old carpenter's trick is, if you can't hide a mistake, make it obvious.
Good luck and don't be afraid to try this yourself. I don't think you can do irreparable damage to this repair job. Thanks for reading my article!
I think you have to remember that you are living in a house that is set squarely on an earthquake fault line. It is moving and twisting and turning all the time just as if it were in an earthquake. You have to take care of it and make repairs constantly. Especially in a motor home. If you don't water lines will leak and electric will short out... any number of things. We are full time RVers and it is a constant chore to caulk leaks and be mindful of the condition of our house. That is why your articles are so helpful and welcome. Most of us are up to doing minor repairs but something major is daunting. RV repair facilities are over charging RVers because they think we are all rich. Keep up the good work. Well written and easy to understand.
Thank you so much, Al! I'm glad you find my RV hubs helpful. Yes, RVs need constant care, especially if you use them frequently. This is why it is so important to do the repairs yourself if possible. It is indeed a shame repairs cost so much at RV repair shops. Thanks for the nice comments!
Randy
Help I have a travel trailer and on one side of the floor in our bedroom the floor is soft we cannot afford to take to be fixe due how can we fix this our self. thank you for your help
There's no other way than to dig in and tear the bad flooring out. You can't do irreparable damage and you will be no worse off by trying to fix it yourself.
Use my article as a guide but be aware that there are many different types of floor supports in different travel trailers. Without seeing the damage I can give no better advice than this. Sorry Maggie, feel free to ask me for further info if you think I may be of assistance.
Thanks for reading my article!
Randy, Just purchased a used travel trailer. There is a small softspot right inside the entry door underneath the fire exstiguisher and against the outside wall. It appears harmless right now. I do not see any current leaks and have tried a water hose and cant seem to see any leaking now. What are the risks of not doing an immediate repair ?
This could be from a previous leak, David. It's possible the leak has been repaired and the floor damage may not get any worse. I would apply some sealer to the seam above the door and around the door trim
If the walls are hollow it is possible it many be seeping down inside the wall and soaking the floor. If it is still leaking this will deteriorate the floor even further, especially if the floor consists of particleboard.
Thanks for reading!
Voted this up and clicked the "useful" icon! You might have to give Cory some advice when he starts remodeling their camper! We're going to borrow it sometimes - especially if/when you have another pond party.
We'll try to have a pond party this fall if we can all agree on a weekend. Thanks for the vote!
Sounds good to me!
Can a door of a airstream travel trailer be enlarged?????
bldrforu@yahoo.com, please advise
Since the door of an Airstream travel trailer is curved, like the sides of the trailer itself, the door would have to be custom made unless the Airstream company makes a larger one.
Sorry, I've no experience with enlarging an Airstream door. Perhaps the Airstream company could advise you on this particular alteration.
Thanks for reading!
Randy,looking at an 85 ford (68000) mi.rv that had a roof leak.I noticed the ceiling to be a bit uneven and rotting wood in the walls.we are talking $1400.00.i am very goo at handy work.look for info to replace walls in side and ceiling but could not find --any suggestions on this purchase and repair.
Hello Mike! I am not familiar with the type of walls in this model but if you are handy with tools I see no reason you can't repair them yourself. Solid walls may pose a problem as the exterior siding is attached to them. If they use studs it will be a simple matter to remove the paneling and repair the damage. The same goes for the ceiling. Good luck on the repairs!
Feel free to ask about any problems if you think I can be of assistance.
Thanks for reading!
can you put a floating laminate floor in a camper??
I have never installed a floating floor in a camper before, Mega! However, I have heard of it being done. I foresee no problems in the installation or materials but I cannot guarantee the results or longevity of the floor.
If you decide to try a floating floor, I would be pleased if you would comment here on the results.
Thanks for reading my article!
@Peter Vincent Sorry Peter, but the link on your comment raided warnings on my computer. I had no choice but to delete your comment.
I have never heard about the technique you mentioned but it sounds possible if I understand it correctly.
Thanks for reading!
i have a cub aero im replacing the floor in there is no joist just the frame rails there is plywood then foam then plywood it just seems there just isnt enough support under it what would you recommend
A common problem, Jason. As in the floor repair photos in this article, you can see the lack of proper support in this floor. We added more floor joists to assure a firm foundation for the new plywood floor.
You may have to use self tapping screws to attach more floor joists to the frame rails. The more the better! I hope I understood your problem and my suggestion works for you. If not, feel free to comment again and I will try to help. Thanks for reading!
Try using self tapping screws to attach new floor joists to the frame rails. Many RV's do not have enough floor joists or any at all. By attaching 2 inch thick boards to the frame you can then use wood screws to attach the floor joists at a proper distance for good floor support.
Feel free to ask for further clarification if needed! Thanks for reading!
I have an older Yellowstone camper with a tip out/ cut in and the floor has some damage to the tip out area, the previous owner did a hatchet job of repairing part of the area and left the other part undone. my question is how do I support the tip out while replacing the floor. by my measurements the area is 4'x7.5 and I think just 1/2 thick. I look forward to your reply as I plan on starting the repair asap
Sorry Randy, I forgot to mention that this camper is set up in a seasonal campsite and never moved, it also has a shingled roof covering it and an added sun room
I'm not sure I understand what a tip out/cut in is, Jerry. If you mean a slide out room then it may be necessary to place supports around the perimeter of the room while repairing the floor. If you can clarify your problem of supporting the area I will try to give more precise advice. Thanks!
Well when we bought the camper we were told it was a tip out, but someone else told me that the camper wall was actually cut out and this section added to it, I see several like it around the campsite so whatever it's called it is common. Also I think it's called a park model. It looks like I may have to support the outer walls before removing the floor......
Whether it was added or came that way, you will need to support the walls while repairing the floor. Utilizing wood beams and blocks should enable you to accomplish the job easily enough. Sorry I can't be of more assistance but I haven't encountered this type floor repair job before.
If I can help you with any problems encountered while doing this repair please ask. I would be interested in how your repairs turn out and I'm sure others would too.
Thanks again and also for reading and commenting on my article.
Thanks Randy, I'm going to try to make the repairs soon and will let you know how it turned out, like you have said here before, I can afford to make a mistake or two as long as I do no extensive damage to the camper while trying to fix it..........
You are right, Jerry! Take your time and you will be pleased with the results. Please do let me know how it turns out, I'm sure others will appreciate your experience too! Good luck and thanks!
Randy
Randy, i bought a used 2003 19 ft. travel trailer a couple years ago. last year i noticed a small soft spot in the center of the camper floor, probably the weakest spot in the camper. by reading the other posts, i'm assuming it is probably due to the lack of floor joists. there is no evidence of leaks from the roof or plumbing. i was considering installing a laminate floor to add a little stability rather than remove everything to add joists. what do you think? any other suggestions? thanks randy...you're the man!
The laminate floor will surely help the stability but I'm not sure if it will last if the spot is very big. Some laminates will break if the spot is so big it allows them to flex very much.
But on the other hand it would be simple to remove the laminate floor and do the repairs if it proved to be unstable. It's your call mdubrey!
Thanks for checking out my hub!
We recently bought a 1995 Shasta 5th wheel. Owner said the previous people's water heater tank leaked and caused the floor in the kitchen area damage. He said he tore up that area and replaced it. But didn't go under the cabinets, is that a problem? Also, the entry way door enters into the kitchen that is where the new floor was laid then to the right is the little carpeted section with the table and I don't feel any soft spots there but he never replaced the floor, is there still possibility the leak ruined under that as well and there isn't soft spots? Would it be best to rip up the carpet and check? Then the next area is the vanity sink to the left and bathroom to the right before going up into the bedroom area. We noticed in front of the vanity sink there is a small soft spot, so we are assuming that's from another leak correct?? How do we check over the camper to make sure there aren't any leaks? We just bought it and are very new to 5th wheels. We have no idea what to do!!
Hello Jay! There is no way to check for damaged flooring that doesn't have obvious soft spots without removing the carpet. Sorry, but this is the way of things in most RV's.
Usually, areas away from sinks, showers, and toilets are not exposed to water damage unless the whole area is flooded. The soft spots will eventually have to be repaired as the wood used usually deteriorates from being walked on.
Not replacing the floor under the cabinet should pose no problem as it isn't walked on. Sorry I can't give more precise advise without seeing the camper first hand.
If you think I can help further please feel free to ask.
Hello, just found lots of water damage on the floor of my triple bunk trailer. The damage is on the floor under the bunk and it seems to extend to the bathroom right next to it and possibly under a cabinet (pantry). My question is do I have to remove the cabinets and walls or just replace the floor up to them ? any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks
You can just replace the floor up to the cabinets and walls, Ivo! Just add supporting joists wherever they are needed, such as along the walls, cabinets, and at any flooring joints! Goog luck on your repairs and thanks for reading!
Thanks. Quick question: would you recomend I replace all wood that has been exposed to moisture ? Do you replace wood that is damp but solid still ? Thanks.
If the wood is particleboard it is best to replace it as it will begin to disintegrate eventually. Plywood which is still solid may be retained. Thanks, Ivo!
Great advice in this article! The finished floor looks flawless. A good word of advice for anyone interested in purchasing an RV is to not buy an off-brand (a brand that no-ones heard of), unless you're sure their product is good. Many times in the past I've had friends who have bought weird brand-name RVs. They loved their new RV, until unforseen problems arose in the transmission, plumbing, etc... So be careful and do your homework!
Thanks for the comments, Auto! Your advice about buying off-brand RV's is worth taking in consideration by would-be owners. The plumbing problems can be dealt with but engine and transmission parts may be difficult to locate for some motorhomes.
I too have purchased a used rv with water damage to to the bathroom floor. I plan to replace the wet wood with new and have already taken the toilet out. However, I went to take the sink vanity out and it looks as if the cabinet is attatched from the outside of the trailer. any ideas how to remove the sink without tearing up the walls. Any advice is appreciated.
This not uncommon,Jack! Many RV's have the cabinets, both bath and kitchen, built in place. The best you can do is either tear them out and build new ones, or try to remove and replace the floor underneath.
The simplest thing to do is just replace the floor up to the cabinet and not worry about putting new floor beneath. This is the method used in this article. Since you will not be walking on the floor beneath the vanity it really doesn't matter. Thanks, I hope you have good luck with your floor repair!
Brent, I cannot allow your comment because of the link attached. Sorry, but I will still answer your question, which is:
"I have a 1974 scamper trailer 14 foot single axle with water damage under the rear bed which i discovered while removing the water storage tank which had a slight leak. Is this section of floor difficult to replace? Should I replace the whole floor? Thanks for your advice!"
You do not have to replace the entire floor, Brent. Simply cut out the bad section, place new joists of some sort around the cut-out, centering them beneath the old and new floor edges. This gives both edges support. Use wood screws to attach the flooring to the joist.
Randy,
Good article and good answers to the many questions asked of you.
We have a 2003 Jayco Eagle 24 ft. fifth wheel. We have torn out the tile in the kitchen area (in the rear) and the carpet in the non-slider portion of the dining/living area. We have decided to leave the carpet on the slider portion for now until we see how we do with the rest. We want to tile, probably with tile squares as opposed to sheet, as it will be easier. Which is better - cement down or peel and stick? Will a water spill seep through the joints? Lastly, what is the best way to attach the edge that is under the slider? Thank you in advance for your answer.
Hello Bonnie and thanks for visiting my article page! A good quality peel-and-stick tile will do very well if you first treat the floor with a glue activation coating. When this coating dries it activates the glue on the tile and creates a permanent bond between the tile and floor. Find this at Lowe's or Home Depot!
If you mistakenly touch the tile to the floor before it is in the right position, you will understand how good this bond is when attempting to remove the misplaced tile. You will have to scrape it up in pieces to remove it!
Although minor instances of water being spilled will not affect the tiles, long exposure to dampness or standing water will damage almost any floor covering. The peel-and-stick tile installs easily and is very flexible and durable for ordinary RV flooring.
A thin carpet bar or stripping may work for the edge under the slider. Without seeing the area, it is hard for me to give you proper advice. I hope this helps you in your reflooring project!
I have just bought a 05 travel lite 30 ft. with a slide. After purchasing the trailer we found out that the previous owners did not drain the hot water tank and it froze and busted leaking water all over the floor. We found the floor was wet when we got it home and then started noticing soft spots in the hallway and bathroom. I am thinking about just going underneath and bracing it up with marine grade plywood and acq 2x4s and putting basically a small section of floor joist system like a house and fastening it to the frame underneath the existing floor. The reason for this is the flooring is all one piece throughout and is undamaged on top. is this possible or should I repair it from the inside.
Hello Eric, and thanks for visiting my article page. I am not too fond of this idea because it seems to me if the floor has soft spots this would indicate some damage to the floor itself. I can only assume you are referring to the floor covering itself and not the sub floor.
However, since I cannot examine the trailer I will not try and dissuade you from doing what you think is easiest and most economical in your view. Perhaps a little more info would help out! Is the bottom of the RV uncovered? Is it easy to get to the area beneath the sub floor itself?
Randy, Thanks so much for the answer. I do have one more question. Is there a good way to tell "good quality tile squares" from those that are not so good? I know price is not necessarily the best way to tell. Thanks again.
You are welcome, Bonnie! You can check the stated warranty or ask a salesperson at Lowe's or Home depot about the quality of the tiles. Be sure to get boxes with the same lot numbers to insure the colors match. There are often subtle differences in color and pattern in different lots. Thanks again!
Hi Randy,
Kudos to you for this site! I am selling an older 60's model Airstream and as far as I can tell, the floor is quite solid. I have a long-distance interest asking me to variously jab the floor with an ice pick to see how far into the wood it will go. Is this a good way to test for soft spots in the floor? Can you tell me any other ways to detect soft flooring? Walking, bouncing and listening do not reveal anything to me.
Using an ice pick may indicate a soft spot in the floor, Debbie! But unless you use it all over the whole floor just trying to find a soft spot with this method will damage it.
If walking and bouncing does not reveal any soft spots, the odds are there are none to be found. Unless there have been roof leaks or plumbing problems, there is no reason to suspect a damaged floor.
Thanks for reading and feel free to ask further questions if you think I can be of assistance!
Hello Randy, In regards to the floor in our rv. Yes it is completely covered underneath.
And thinking about it, putting something underneath would be of no value because there is no way to get it up against the subfloor due to joist already being there. so I will follow your instructions and have my wife go pick out some alternate flooring. Is it possible to put a free floating floor in one of these? I have plenty of clearance from the bottom of the cabinet doors and such to make up for the extra thickness.
I thought this might be the case, Eric! As regards to free floating flooring, the sub floor must be sound as a floating floor is not strong enough to support much weight in itself.
The floating floor will work well as I have heard of some using it. Good luck and please stop back by if you think I may assist you in any way.
Thanks,
Randy
Hello Randy,
We are still working on replacing our RV floor (2003 Jayco Eagle fifth-wheel). We have taken up the carpet and linoleum on the non-slider portion of the floor, with the exception of the bathroom, under the cabinets in the kitchen and the small square area in front of the door. My question is: Is it better to leave this piece of linoleum, that has no seams, in front of the door that might have sustained dampness due to tracking in, or is it better to replace that along with the rest with tile squares?
We thought that it being one piece it might be better to leave it as a wetness protection, but we wonder if the joining strip will cause a hazard that we might trip over. We do keep a throw rug over the area to help collect dirt and sand. We would appreciate your expertise in this matter.
Thanks again for your help.
This has to be your call, Bonnie! But a well installed tile floor should give you adequate protection from dampness re the tracking in moisture. But if you decide to leave the original floor there are thinner joint strips you can utilize to prevent the tripping hazard you are concerned about!
Congrats on your progress!
Randy
Hello Randy, I have a 1995 Kustom Koach travel trailer that has two sections of floor rot. These are both on the right side of the trailer, one in the front corner extending back five feet or so and the other at the back corner, probably three feet long. Both of these sections seem to extend under the outside wall. Can I fix these from inside the unit or do I have to remove the outside skin in order to replace the rotted wood under the wall?
Hi, Randy. Love this site. Your advice has been excellent. Your dedication to it is awesome. Anyway, I have a 2003 Rexhall Rexair A class. We just purchased it. We would like to replace the carpet in it and change it to laminate. It has two slides. Can you laminate the whole thing, or do you have to have carpet where the slide is? I worry that it would scratch the laminate every time you open or close the slide.
Hi B Adams! You do not have to remove the outside skin but will have to attach some wood to the frame from the inside for the edge of the new flooring to rest on. You will have a better idea of how you can do this after the damaged flooring is removed.
It may be necessary to use self tapping screws to attach the supporting joists to the steel frame. Thanks for visiting and feel free ask for more info!
Hello Gaby! Thanks for the nice comments! You have asked me a question that I do not know the answer to! I have never been faced with such an option so I'm afraid to advise you on this matter. But perhaps there is a pad which may be placed beneath the slide which would prevent such abrasions! Sorry, but I will try to find out about this soon!
Hello Randy, Love this site! & glad to hear Im not alone with h2o damaged floors! :) I have a 2000' Palamino ultralite. Bought it with a soft floor 2 yrs ago...now it's really bad! & Im fealing really impowered to tackle this major repair now after doing some research & reading your site. Im not sure how to locate where there may have been water leaking though. Should I tear up the floor 1st then hook up the city water and turn it on and look for leaks that way? and how can you tell if theres a leaky water heater as it's enclosed in styrofoam? It's wet and damaged through out the entire walking area right into the bathroom, but not within 4-6 inches of all the surrounding cabinets. I think I lucked out there huh? :) This is a very poorly designed camper as the body is fiberglass and the beds are like those of a pop up on either end of the camper. Terrible for water leakage, the rain gutter above the bunk out does not defer the rain away from the camper, but allows it find ways of running in the camper! Forever caulking! :( hahaha
Hi Ellyn! Sorry to take so long to answer but I have been camping in a spot with no internet access. Yes, it sounds as if you do have a few problems. Removing the damaged area and then checking the plumbing is an excellent idea. You should be able to find any leaking pipes or fixtures this way.
The water heater should also show some leakage under pressure over a period of time either on or beneath the floor if it is damaged. Yes, you are lucky if the floor is good enough to keep from going under the cabinets!
These floor jobs all seem to be a bit different but there is little damage you can do which cannot be repaired, so don't be afraid to tackle the job! Good luck and thanks for visiting my hubs!
We purchased a 2000 Coachmen 29' TT, upon getting it home from the dealer found that the floor in the bathroom was very soft (the water heater had 2 cracks it and we have replaced it with a new one). So we decided to rip the floor out. The previous owner had put a lenolium on top of the original floor in the kitchen and bath. We took out the carpet in the living room as well as the lenolium and plan on replacing it with the self adhesive time on a diagonal in all 3 areas (I realize this will be more work but in my opinion I think it will look better).
My questions are:
The plywood that was replaced has space between it and the old floor, what is the best way to fill that to eliminate the gaps so that the tiles won't break on us??
We are in NH so the weather is getting cold, will leaving the heat on in the camper be enough to warm the floor so that the tiles will adhere?
Do I need to do something to the plywood so that the tiles will stick properly??
Thank you in advance!!
Thanks for stopping by, Christine! The gaps between the old and new flooring may be filled with ordinary wood filler if they aren't to big. There are products made for just such applications sold at most Home Depot or Lowe's building supply stores.
While you are there, ask in the flooring department for a glue activation solution for adhesive backed vinyl tile. Most of these products are rolled on the floor and allowed to dry before setting the tile.
Be very sure the tile is in the exact position before pressing it down. If you get one crooked it is very hard to remove and usually have to tear it up in pieces.
It may be better to warm the floor and tiles before application. Good luck on your floor job and enjoy your camping trips!
Randy
Hi Randy, I have really enjoyed reading your posting about replacing the flooring. We recently purchased a 2007 Tahoe by Thor Toy hauler. After we got it home, we found a soft spot (18" X 24"). We can conclude, due to a "hint" that the seller dropped, That the water damage occurred when he allowed the fresh water tank to overflow. We have repaired the inlet but we are still concerned about the softness in the floor. Is it mandatory that we fix it? Are we going to cause more damage if we let it go? Is there any way that the floor could fall through? Thank you.
Hello, Mandy! The soft spot will eventually get worse as you walk over the area, but it might be okay for a while depending on how often you use your RV.
If the leak is stopped now no addition damage should be caused by not repairing the soft spot. You will have to be the judge of when this spot gets too bad to ignore.
Thanks for reading and I hope this advice is of use to you!
Randy Godwin
Hi! I've purchased a 1984 Heritage 5000. This is my first experience with owning a Motorhome and I am planning to do most of the repairs myself. I'm having trouble locating information on repairing body damage and also where materials that are suitable can be located. I would like to tear the outer shell loose and re-fit another in its place. Is this do-able or am I off my rocker? I believe I'm up to the work and feel certain my carpentry skills will allow this to happen if I could locate the proper materials. Thanks for any help
I am not familiar with the materials used on this particular motorhome, Sway! Many motorhomes use a solid wall material instead of a stud wall with removable metal on the exterior.
If yours is the type which uses an aluminum siding type material, it may be possible to replace it. You will have to be the judge of whether you are up for the project or not! Sorry I could not be of better service.
Randy
Thanks for the response Randy,
It appears to be a form of sealed particle board over a 1x1 frame....without tearing off completely I believe I have a front and back aluminum skeleton for the front and back structure with wooden framing between. That issue is easily solved. I'm wondering about suppliers for any siding that I may use in place of what I tear off. All I have come up with on google searches is rv business's. The interior and outside I intend on highly customizing and treating the vehicle as a mechanically sound platform. I guess my main question was whether or not you knew of lighter weight materials that are commonly used and where they might be found. Thanks again, I'm sorting this thing out as I go and its a learning process. Sorry my question wasn't as clear the first go around. I'm up for adaption. Just trying to keep the overall weight down. Hope your having a great Thanksgiving!
s'cuse me, I meant 2x2
@Sway-Perhaps fiberglass or aluminum sheeting might work well for the exterior material. I Googled "fiberglass sheets" and found this site :
http://www.fiberglasssheets.com/
There are more search options but this is the first one I tried. Others may suit you even better. Fiberglass is easily customized and paints well. It also has good longevity and is easily repaired.
I hope this info helps you with your project! Let me know how it turns out as I am writing an article about exterior repairs on RVs.
Thanks for stopping in!
Randy
Will certainly keep you updated. Thanks for the link too!
I figured it was a wrong question problem and not a lack of anwere's issue.
We will see how it goes on the repair, need to talk with the insurance company Monday. Hit a large deer on the way home and I don't know where my renovation project is at, at the moment. The front nose collapsed and the whole structure took a bad shock. Hoping its not totaled in the adjusters eyes.
Yep, the deer here cause lots of damage to vehicles too! Sorry to hear about the damage, argue like the dickens with the adjuster and tell him you want it fixed instead of totaled! In some states they have to fix it if you want them to!
Please stop in again!
Randy
Randy, I have a soft spot in the plywood in the hallway/galley area of my Winnebago Minnie. I have read what you wrote about just cutting out the soft spot and patching the hole, but I am concerned that this will "hold". It seems like a weak fix to me. Am I being paranoid? My second thought is with regard to the VERY cold floors now that I have it (mostly) stripped down to the plywood. (I am also replacing the particle board kitchen cabinetry that has disintegrated, so that isn't an issue, but will have to work underneath all of the electrical and plumbing tubes that is run through there.) There is a web site called warmyourfloor.com that sells a) Cork Insulation for concrete Slab (R-Value = 3.1 per inch) Sold by the Sq Ft. And I am thinking of using this to insulate the plywood floor. Your thoughts? And b) the 12" (or maybe 24") wide 120 volt SunTouch under floor heat mat sold on the same web site. Just run a strip straight down the hallway from the bedroom to the front cab, This wouldn't heat the entire floor, but a goodly portion of it. To top it all off, I am thinking either globus or APC cork tiles, but I am not positive if cork flooring would moot the point of the heat mat underneath it by completely insulating the mat. Your thoughts?
The patch will hold fine if you make sure the edges of the patch are screwed down to the new floor joists added during the repairs. Add as many extra floor supports as you think necessary.
Not sure about using the cork floor and the heat mat but feel they may work well together. Even though the cork is an insulator, it should still warm up to a certain extent.
Let me know how it works out, Jaime. It sounds interesting. Thanks for reading my article and for the questions.
Randy Godwin
Ok. Questions! When I crawl underneath my coach, I cannot see any plywood at all. It seems to have a steel(?) pan floor. Seems to me this could be bad, because that could hold any water that seeped through the wood to make it soft in the first place, right? The "plywood" is actually 1-1/4" thick. Is this most likely two layers of 3/4" plywood? Or one super heavy duty chunk of wood? (nah - surely not...?) If it is two layers, it is so squished together, I can't tell. Oddly enough, the exterior walls do not sit on top of the floor, which is what I thought from reading that I would find. I'm feeling very intimidated by this project, and progressing ever so slowly. Also! What is going to be the best product to seal new wood with before I install insulation or flooring? Do I want an oil based or water based sealant? Will any "Thompson's" type deck sealant do? I want to protect from further possible plumbing accidents. Thanks, Randy! I appreciate your time.
Hello again Jaime. In the photos on this hub you can see the metal covering beneath the floor joists. It is a galvanized steel material. Styrofoam filled the gaps between the few floor joists with the final flooring being 1" particleboard.
Your particular RV may not be exactly like this as there are many different variations. I replaced the particleboard with pressure treated plywood to guard against future damage. No preservative is needed in this case. If you use standard plywood make sure any sealant will accept adhesives if you plan to use a stick-on type flooring.
Two layers of 3/4 " plywood will work fine. You might have to add more floor joists along the walls for the edge of the flooring to rest on if there aren't enough already. It never hurts to have more.
Yes, the steel covering caused the water damage on the floor featured in this article. It couldn't escape and eventually rotted the wood. I drilled a few drain holes to prevent this from happening again.
Don't be discouraged with the floor repair, you can get it done. Feel free to ask me about any problems you encounter and I'll help you all I can.
Randy
Hi and thanks for such a informative blog.
We just purchased a 1999 prowler 5th wheel 305x model.
I want to replace the carpet t/o and put in new lino flooring. The super slide is my concern. How do I get old carpet out from underneath the slide and keep slide from tearing the lino once replaced? I want the carpet out of the supper slide area also.SO the edge must be covered with..... Any suggestion?
Thanks somuch for your help and advice.
I am not familiar with your particular model, Deb. I will try to see if I can find something similar so I can advise you on your dilemma. Check back later and comment again in case I forget. I've got "Old timer's" disease and forget sometimes.
Thanks
Randy
Randy
I want to replace the carpet in my travel trailer (Airstream-Bambi) with some other type of flooring. Any suggestions? I have two dogs that will travel with me. My wife would prefer some type of laminate or wood flooring. Would you suggest some waterproofing prior to setting the floor?
Thanks for the question, Del! The Airstream Bambi is a great travel trailer. I've been looking for one to remodel and do a step-by-step pictorial article in the process.
Laminate flooring has been used on some RV reflooring projects with the owners having satisfactory results, as far as I know. Peel and Stick vinyl tile works very well if you use a glue activator on the sub-floor before installation.
Yes, I would recommend using some sort of waterproofing agent or at least some roofing felt if you are planning to use a "floating" laminate floor.
Good luck on your RV floor repair to your Airstream and I hope this advice is satisfactory for your purpose.
Thanks for reading my article!
Randy
My friend gave me her 95 dutchmen rv 5th wheel last year and me and my family have been living in it for 9 months now just today i noticed a squeak in the floor and u can see a line that goes across the floor like it is a weak spot...i know the bathroom has a leak so i dont use the shower at all anymore...is it possible for the bunk part upstairs to break off the camper?really has me scared i have little children and i have no insurance on this thing...or can we fall through the floor?any advice would be very helpful..thank you
and the line im talking about is in the living room by the fridge
Hello Tara,
While I cannot guarantee you the bunks part won't fall off, I would think the odds are very slim. More than likely, it would be a very slow collapse if indeed it broke.
The same for the floor unless it is very soft, and even them you wouldn't go all the way through the floor as it is probably layered in styrofoam panels. The line is possibly a joint where the particleboard or plywood flooring panels join together. In other words, a joint seam.
I hope this helps allay your fears somewhat, but please be careful and watch the floor for further signs of any weakness.
Thanks for reading my article!
Randy
Great article!
I have a 2006 Dutchmen that purchased last year. As everyone else, the floor started flexing. I stripped the linoleum this winter and found a large part of the floor was wet and rotting. Mine has the synthetic membrane on the bottom, thin layer of wood, 1 ½” Styrofoam, then the thin top layer of wood. It is unbelievable how these floors hold up at all. I believe the water got in the floor from an open roof vent and went into a wire whole under the dinette bench from a previous owner.
So far I have tried to repair it the way they had it and the results were only flexing. Then I took it to a welder and had him weld supports 1 ft apart underneath the trailer… still flexed. So I ripped everything out, used a heat cutter to cut grooves in the Styrofoam for wooden supports where they had none. Then I glued and screwed the same thickness plywood they had on top of the supports… Still flexed. So then I bought more plywood ¼” thick and liquid nailed it to what I had down. Now the flexing has stopped.
I wrote a long e-mail to Dutchmen about the poor floor design (They did tell me FEMA was the original purchaser). I suggest we all should let the manufacture’s know that these poor floor designs are not acceptable to us consumers. Once water gets into these floors it has nowhere to go or no way to dry up.
Again Randy, great article. I wish I would have found it a month or two sooner. lol
@Mike--Thanks so much for relating your repair procedures and the problems you encountered while attempting repairs.
We used 3/4 inch thick pressure treated plywood and added extra floor joists to ensure the floor would not flex when walked upon.
I agree with your opinion concerning how shoddily these camping trailers are constructed. Someone's palm was well greased to overlook the potential problems these type floors represent. Many FEMA contractors got rich by skimping on materials during the Katrina fiasco.
Thousands of these units were built and then were prohibited from being used as planned because they weren't certified for use in low areas. Now we understand why. Of course, nothing was done to those profiting from the vast sum spent to build them. LOL!
So good luck getting anyone to listen to your complaints about these trailers.
Thanks again for your input Mike, and for reading my article.
Randy
Hello
I just purchased a 1995 Prowler with a front slide. We would like to have the carpet replaced because the rest of the camper is in excellent condition. I am not sure how you would go about getting the carpet under the slide. The slide comes in level and goes out level with no tilt. I can not even get one finger under it. The previous owner had done it and did a great job. I just don't want to be tilting slides out if there is another way. Also there is some flex in the front floor. Does not feel soft or rotted just a little bounce in it is this normal.
Hello Ray,
I cannot give you any advice on this particular slide-out at his time as I am unfamiliar with how it is attached. I will try to find out more for you but you may have to contact the company or one with a similar type slide-out for the easiest procedure.
I wanted to thank you for all your articles and to ask you a quick question. We recently have a 87 Prowler that we purchased - it is staying stationary at a camp. We are redoing the inside and found one spot in the floor that we think we will have to take all the way down. How hard is it to go to the base and redo the floor from the skin up? Not sure if the "skin" is aluminum or what, we haven't gotten that far yet. I hope this something we can do in a weekend - lol.
Hello Heather, and thanks for reading my RV articles. To be honest with you, I am not familiar with your particular RV's floor construction. There are so many different models of RVs not to mention, different construction methods used, I cannot advise you with any degree of confidence.
I usually discover the method used for an RV floor installation when I remove the bad spot or area of the floor, especially in the older models.
I wish I could tell you how long it would take and how to do the repairs but without knowing the length of the RV, or the floor construction method used, I simply cannot help you very much.
If you can give me a little more info on the model and length, I may be able to find a similar RV to examine.
Thanks again for reading and sorry I couldn't help you more at this time.
Randy Godwin
It is a late 80's Fleetwood Prowler Lynx. I am really worried about starting this project because I believe from the damage we saw we are going to have to do most of the floor. Should we take the outer skin off and jack the roof up to do the corners with the floor and the wall or will we be able to brace it from the inside? I cannot wait till this is done and we can actually get to enjoy camp! : - )
Hello Heather, you can replace the floor without jacking up the roof if you make sure to use good attaching points along the walls. It is a fairly time consuming job but not a complicated one. Good luck and enjoy your RV when you are done.
Thanks
Randy
Hi Randy,
Thanks for taking your time to make this info available to everyone.
I have a Prowler Lynx with a rotten floor near the entrance.
I took up the linoleum and removed Plywood - Foam - Plywood in a 3 X 4 ft area.
My plan is:
Add 2 X 4 joists underneath by drilling holes in the steel crossbeams and lagging in the 2 X's every 8 inches.
Then attach 2X4's lying flat on the inside of the trailer by screwing them down, through the plastic bottom into the newly added joists.
These 2X4's laying flat would replace the 1 1/2" foam and give me something to screw the new plywood floor onto.
I've never down anything like this.
What do you think about my plan?
Thanks,
Scott
It sounds like a strong repair, Scott. You just have to wing it sometimes as the thickness of the floor differs from model to model.
Every RV floor repair I've done so far is far stronger than the original. Thanks for reading and let me know how the repair went.
Randy
I have a 2002 tahoe 5th whl camper it has hard wood in the kitchen area it got wet and turn black do you think we can leave the hardwood and take the carpet out and replace it all with vinyl and also can this be done without the slide hurting the vinyl.
I foresee no problems with your plans, Dena. The slide should not harm the new floor. Thanks for the question and for reading.
Randy Godwin
Randy, we live in northern California and have started a used trailer sales business. Where could we find classes or training for certification on repairing trailers (including the outside body)?
Have you tried the MINWAX wood hardening liquid and 2-part filler? I was able to solidify the edges of a soft spot in my RV floor, and then put a patch in the middle fairly easily using this stuff.
Hi Al! I've used this product for the exterior of wood homes, but never for RV floor repair. Thanks for the tip and for stopping by.
Randy Godwin
I have a 1988 king of the road, fifth wheel with a slide out. how do I replace the carpet under the edge of the slide out? thanks
Hello Nathan, there are so many different types of slide-outs used in today's RVs it's difficult to give you precise instructions for replacing the carpet under them.
Many slide-outs are installed after the carpet is already in place when the RV is assembled. I will see if I can find out more info for your particular model, though.
Sorry I cannot help you more at this time. Thanks for the question and your time.
Randy
I have a 1995 Jayco Eagle 35' fifth wheel camp trailer and I need to know how to remove and replace the ceiling in it. There is some water damage and we need to fix it but need some insight on how to do it
Hi Brenda, I'm not familiar with the type of ceiling in your particular model RV so I can't give you specific instructions for the repairs. There are too many different types of ceiling materials and different methods in which they are installed.
Until you remove a portion of the ceiling you may not see exactly what the ceiling material is attached to. Sorry I cannot help you but feel free to ask further questions when you remove the old materials.
Thanks for your time.
Randy Godwin
I have a 2005 Kodiak. I belive it is made by Dutchman. The floor by the door is getting soft and I wanted to replace it. The door was leaking. I was told by a local trailer repair shop and also Dutchamd that the entire floor needs to be replaced. I will deal with a letter to them later, but for now has anyone ever repaired this newer type of floor? If so how? I can't believe they built something that can't be repaired!!!
Hello Paul! The floor in these pictures is from a Dutchman RV. The soft spot was in the same area as yours, along the bottom of the door.
The reason Dutchman and repair guys tell you the entire floor needs replacing is they want to do it themselves. As long as you use some sort of brackets to attach the new floor section to the walls you will be fine. Hope this helps you solve the problem.
Randy
Hi Randy,
I just found your site and I received good info from you to replace the floor in my 5th wheel.
You are so right about the lack of floor joists. I have a section of floor removed. There is some sort of fabric sheet, (black,) on top of the joists. Then a thin layer of insulation and finally 1/2" plywood. I think I'm working with about a 1 1/2" depth. I'm seriously thinking about using 1/2" cedar boards intended for fencing. If I can go over the one floor joist and find another under the booth or couch, I would criss cross and have 3 layers of cedar boards, deep. By using cedar and criss crossing, the floor should be strong and resistent to any dampness.
Anything I should consider? Moisture barrier? If so, what do you suggest? Any and all tips you could give me is greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
rudy
@Rudy--it wouldn't hurt to replace the moisture barrier and would be fairly cheap to do so. If you can add more floor joists it will help to support the floor better and give you more to screw the boards to.
Any other assistance you may need you may feel free to ask here on the comments. Thanks for reading and for your question.
Randy
Our 2001 26' Rockford needs a floor. We noticed softness initially but the dealer and later the servicemen repetitively said, "Oh no we checked..the floor is fine!" Anyone know why they don't use marine ply instead of flake board for floors? Apparently floors inevitably get wet and this is usually either the end of the RV's life or a huge expense to fix.
Randy - I have a '98 Aerolite with water damage to the floor that has increased over the last year, but I have seen no obvious leaks inside. After reading your article I will probably try to replace this but am concerned it will just come back. Any suggestions on additional areas to inspect? Also, the sheet metal on the underneath side of the campeer has a few rusted spots and cracks - does it need to be replaced too? Thanks!
@Tom Carney-They don't use marine plywood because it costs more, Tom! it's all about building the RV as cheap as possible while making the most profit from the finished product. There should be better laws in place to ensure RV's are built well, but unfortunately there aren't.
Never trust a dealer's opinion on suspected structural damage! Thanks for stopping by!
Randy Godwin
Hello Roneb, even after a leak has been repaired, some moisture may remain in the area beneath the floor if it has steel or aluminum covering the underside of the RV.
As in the featured floor repair in this article, the leak had been repaired but enough moisture was trapped beneath the floor to deteriorate the flooring material.
This moisture will also cause the rusted and cracked areas on the underside of the camper you mentioned.
you can better tell if these places need to be replaced if and when you repair the floor damage.
Randy
Hi. I got a 95 shasta 245 for a gift from my neighbor, Great shape except the floor. The rear is the kitchen and the whole floor is weak (rotted) under the fridge and cabinets. I am a carpenter but never worked on campers. I noticed the rear outside is settling down over the frame rails to the point where the aluminum siding is bending. Should I remove the plastic sheathing from under the camper and attack it from the bottom or remove all the kitchen? Maybe both? Will it hurt anything to remove the plastic under the camper? What is that for anyways? It seems that it would trap any moisture that gets in ? Thanks for your input. Mike
Hello Mike! This is a tough call since I have no idea what type of floor you have in your Shasta. Obviously, the floor is supporting the weight of the exterior walls if the siding is under stress from the deteriorated floor.
It may be necessary to remove the kitchen cabinets and other impediments from the area to access the support--whatever it may consist of--for the walls. It shouldn't be too difficult since you are are an experienced carpenter. Just take it slow as RV cabinets are not know for their sturdiness.
Although the plastic beneath your RV is meant to keep moisture out--especially while moving it during wet weather--it can also trap water from a leaky roof or plumbing.
Let me know if you find out how the floor is constructed and need more info. Thanks for your question and for reading.
Randy Godwin
I have a 2006 Fleetwood Mallard with a 13' slideout in the living/kitchen area. Due to a bad wiper seal and blowing rain on a trip I have some soft spots in the floor that extend up under the overlapping slide out floor. I need to get this repaired. Can the interior slide out trim boards with the bubble seal attaced be removed to allow the slide out to go out far enough to access the damaged floor? Or is it not that simple???
Your site is great and very helpful.
Thanks,
Robert
Hi Robert! Different makers of RV's use different methods of constructing the slide outs. Most can be moved or detached by removing the trim s you suggest. You may be able to find the method of attachment by contacting the dealer or maker of your RV.
Please let me know what you find out as it may help others with the same model. Thanks for visiting and the question. Sorry I cannot be more precise as there are many different makes of RV's these days.
Randy
hi randy i have a 03 trail lite 8305s.the floor in front of whole slideout area is soft and sags when walked on.is it common for slide outs to leak or as it seems this camper is cheaply put together.could it be the subfloor material has just weakend from alot of traffic?i am a contractor and also considerd aproaching this problem from undernieth.but it sounds like that may be a bad idea.thanks for any suggestions. chris.
Welcome, Chris! Unfortunately yes, all RVs will tend to get leaks after about a decade especially if they have a rubber roof and spend lots of time exposed to the sun and elements.
The slide-out sections are especially prone to leaks because of the extra risk of having a seal which allows movement while preventing rain from entering at the same time. The flat surface of the slide-out is conducive to water not draining away properly and increasing the chance for it to seep in around the seal.
Yes, repairing the floor is not a huge job especially for a contractor. You might consider detaching the slide-out section while doing the repairs as I've had readers use this technique. Trying to do this beneath the RV is not recommended.
Thanks for the question and ask for more info if needed!
Randy
I have a 1999 Starcraft Starlite which has a very soft floor. The trailer has the fridge on one side and the micro, stovetop, and sink on the other. There is also the fresh water and hot water heater on the soft floor. Can you tell me if I have to take all those out or is there a way to support them while I take the floor out and replace it. The dinette is u shaped around the front and has to be taken out as well. The fresh water tank and the hot water heater are under one side of the dinette. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Jim Stacey St. Thomas, Ontario, Canada
Hi Jim,
This is a tough one for me to call since I cannot see your set-up, but if you are going to redo the entire floor it is perhaps better to remove these items out of your way if possible.
I know it is quite a job, but you'd likely be surprised at how much easier it is to do than trying to work around them.
You might however, work the area where these items are in small sections, replacing the floor on either side of them and then using this new solid floor as a base to lift the items up enough to replace the sections beneath.
A last resort but workable in some instances. I hope this helps!
Randy
randy, iam purchasing a 2007 xltravelstar by starcraft.when inspecting trailer i noticed that in the master bedroom that the roof vent had been knocked out by hail.although i did not see any damage. i did notice the linoleum was curled up under the bed in the storage compartment.the owner did not even realize that the vent was completely out and had not been to his camper in 6 mos. or so....how long does the board need to be exposed to water to rot?the camper did not smell musty inside. since the curled lin. is under master bed i am concerned about the weight. the floor right under the leak looks ok though
Hello Ottoman 67! It's hard to say how long the materials can stand being wet without knowing those used in your RV. You might try drilling some holes in the floor under the bed, or even using a hole saw to inspect the damage done by the leak, Otto!
It may have only caused the glue holding the vinyl floor covering to have dissolved without doing much damage to the floor materials used. I doubt a large amount of water would have entered into the standard 14"X14" vent unless it was damaged for a very long time.
But if you need anymore info on repairs feel free to ask. Thanks for your question and for reading.
Randy
MikeNV Level 4 Commenter 2 years ago
I need to replace the carpeting, not the whole floor. But it seems like an impossible task because it looks like they put in the carpet then the cabinets and everything on top of that. So do you just cut out the carpet? Then how do you get it back under the cabinets. I'm afraid to do it because I know I can get it out, but not sure I could ever get it back in and look normal.